THE FADE JOURNAL
Fade Journal covers everything from life with KATO to the craft behind every piece. Stories, insights, and details that reveal the heart of our denim and the world around it.
ARTICLES
American Country Music Star Kelsey Hart
Tell us little bit about yourself. I Grew up in a small town in western Kentucky- “Muhlenberg county.” As a little kid I would sing a lot at church and local talent shows but focused more on sports during my high school years. After high school I went to barber school and started barbering in my hometown. In 2016 I started splitting time between Nashville and going back home to cut hair for part of the week. In 2020 I signed my first publishing deal with Curb Records and moved to Nashville full time, in 2021 where I also signed a record deal with Curb. Since signing I’ve released my first record and have been touring the country the last year playing radio shows, festivals and clubs. You started your career in songwriting, what has inspired you on your journey transitioning into singing? I actually started singing first. It wasn’t until I moved to Nashville that I started writing songs. From 2016 until last year I spent most of my time learning the craft of songwriting and trying to write and record the best songs I could in hopes of hitting the road to play them one day. Who are your music inspirations? My dad was a big gospel music guy. It’s all he ever had playing in his truck, so naturally that inspired me a lot as a kid. I started listening to more country music when I got to high school. Blake Shelton’s record “Red River Blue” really getting me hooked on country music- I had an hour drive to and from work and had that thing on repeat. Could you describe your creative process? (Do you have an idea of the kind of song or does the lyrics come to you first, etc) Each time I go into a writers room, it happens differently. Sometimes it starts with a title, a melody, a guitar riff, it just totally depends on the day.My favorite way to start a write is having a solid title to start with and as we write the lyric molds the music to what the song is. This is how “Life With You” came about. How would you describe your style of music? I would describe my style of music as country rock. The lyric and my vocal leans pretty country but the music def has a rock edge to it.When singing, what are your go-to pieces to wear for a show/tour? I always want to be able to move well on stage. I keep the Hammer Huey wash and the Night wash in rotation night in and night out. I get complements often and people ask me where to get them! What drew you to our Huey wash? I love the fit of them and the look! Who are your style inspirations? Does your stylist Claire help bring your ideal style to life, or does she help shape/create/develop your style? I have to give all the credit to my stylist Claire. She does a great job creating looks that feel like me and finding exactly what I like and feel comfortable in. We saw you reached top 10 Billboard country digital songs chart. What other milestones are you looking to achieve in the next 5 years? My goal is to continue to write and record songs that impact people in a positive way. I would love to see the crowds continue to grow and hopefully be playing arenas in the next 5 years!
Meet Bryan Szabo – Founder of Indigo Invitational
Tell us about yourself. Born and raised in Canada, I moved to Europe in 2013 to be with the Norwegian woman who is now my wife. I’m an editor and author by trade, but, in 2019, I started a small denim fading competition that quite quickly became the largest competition of its kind anywhere in the world. When I started the competition, selvedge denim was a casual hobby. Since then, denim and the style surrounding it have moved to the center of my life. I live in a small city in the south of Norway with my wife and our dog. What was the reason behind creating the book The Rebel’s Wardrobe? The original idea for the book was a kind of style manual for selvedge denim enthusiasts, but, as I began researching for the book, I found myself pulled in an entirely different direction. Each of the garments we looked at in the book (more than 40 of them—each with their own chapter) has a rich and interesting history. From American and French workwear to military pieces and sportswear, the origin stories of these pieces are compelling—especially when we look at how these pieces crossed the divide separating their functional origins and their cultural destination (i.e., how jeans, tee shirts, bomber jackets, etc. became cool). What was your first pair of RAW denim? I got my first pair of raw denim (a pair of Nudies) in 2010. I was immediately hooked on that journey that you can only get with raw denim. I got my second pair (Naked & Famous) on the day before I left Canada to go to Europe for the first time. I knew I would be gone for quite a while, so I planned to wear the pair every day until I got home. It was six months before I was in Canada again. The jeans got their first wash (very much needed) a day or two after I got back. This was the first time that I saw how far you could really go with a pair of raw jeans if you push them hard day after day for months on end. How did you start Indigo Invitational, and how did you start working with Denimhunters? In 2019, I had been wearing and fading raw denim for almost a decade. I had around five pairs on the go (three of them nicely faded and a couple of pairs that were just getting started). I joined the Raw Denim group on Facebook, and I noticed that everybody was showing off brand new pairs. I asked folks to show their best-faded pairs, but the common refrain that came back was “I have too many pairs to just fade one”. I proposed a fading competition that would help members of the group remain disciplined. The idea had been proposed in the group before, but nobody had really followed through. I started a Facebook page and, before long, brands were reaching out to me asking if they could contribute prizes. We started with around 115 competitors in Y1. Last year, we registered more than 1,500 competitors for Y4. Year Five starts on September 1st, and we’re hoping for 2,000 competitors from all over the world. When the competition was still pretty new, a friend of mine connected me with Thomas Stege Bojer. We started collaborating on articles. He started Denimhunters in 2010, and he did a lot of hard work to establish himself as one of the leading authorities in the scene. He allowed me the opportunity to stand on his shoulders to reach his audience. I now write almost all of the content on Denimhunters, and we partnered on The Rebel’s Wardrobe. What is your favorite pair of jeans in your personal collection? It’s really hard to pick a favorite. I’m sentimentally attached to that first pair of Naked & Famous that I brought to Europe with me, but the pairs that I’ve faded in each running of the Indigo Invitational are also really special to me. I can give you a podium of three pairs. The Iron Heart 777-142 that I faded last year, the Oldblue Heavyweight Beasts that I faded the year before, and the pair of Big John Rare 009s that I’ve been wearing in between competitions. For Year Five, I’ve worked with a Thai brand, Piger Works, to produce my first-ever collaboration pair. I’ll be fading them in the competition, and it’s likely that, since I designed them myself, they’ll challenge for a spot on my personal podium. What are your thoughts on Selvedge Denim? Briefly, I think it’s absolutely essential for anybody who cares about what they wear and regularly wears jeans. Once you get to the end of the road with a pair and see what kind of fades you can produce, there’s no turning back. Once you’ve had it, you’ll turn up your nose at everything else. It’s not about snobbery; it’s just about that experience that only raw denim can provide. I can describe that experience to you, but you won’t fully understand until you’ve experienced it for yourself. What are your first thoughts on KATO and about our 4-way stretch denim in 17.5oz mammoth? My KATOs are still my only pair that aren’t 100% cotton. I was skeptical about stretch denim, but I don’t like to think of myself as closed-minded, so I gave it a shot. I was very pleasantly surprised. I’d come to accept that a certain amount of discomfort was baked into the raw denim experience, but the Mammoth Selvedge showed me that I could get that full raw denim experience with a high-performance stretch product. Especially for those who want to ease their way into the raw denim scene, experimenting with heavy denim and made-to-fade selvedge, the Mammoth Selvedge is an excellent way to break into raw denim without any of that discomfort that scares a lot of newcomers away from the scene. Can you share your insights on starting a fade journey? The best advice I can give is to grab a pair (something in the range of 13-18 oz. will be great if it’s your first time) and join the competition. We always have a ton of folks joining us on the starting line who are entirely new to the raw denim concept. In the Indigo Invitational, that experience of fading is shared with a huge community of enthusiasts at every imaginable level. You can gauge your progress against some of the best faders in the world and other newcomers. If you’re able to make it across the line 365 days later, I’ll bet dollars to donuts that you’ll be excited to start your next fade journey. Every year of the competition is a voyage of discovery (even for the old-timers); we all learn from each other and egg each other on to produce our best-ever fades. If, by the time you’re reading this, the competition has already started, join the community as an observer and start thinking about that perfect pair for the next competition.
Meet Nick English AKA Stridewise
Tell us a little about yourself. I’ve had a pretty zigzaggy path thus far. I grew up in Australia and my working life started as an English teacher in China, then a humanitarian in India and Kenya, then I studied journalism and wound up writing about health and fitness in New York City for nearly a decade. That career in digital media and startups taught me how to make a website that generates revenue, and that’s how I was able to turn my side project into a full time job.I never would have predicted this career for myself but it’s a lot of fun, I meet cool things, and I learn about stuff I’m passionate about. How did “Stridewise” become its own platform?Moving to New York meant needing footwear that could survive snow, slush, salt, and lots and lots of walking — this city is 90 percent stairs, I swear — so I bought boot after boot trying to find one that really made me feel like a man who was ready for anything the day would bring. I spent so long trying to find the boots that felt right that I wound up starting a blog about what to look for when buying boots. When I wondered if I could turn that passion into a job, I realized the blog needed a video component, one thing led to another, and now I’ve made videos at boot workshops, leather tanneries, and jeans factories in over a dozen countries. What started as a boot hobby naturally became a project where I learned about other durable, casual, and handsome apparel and gear. The first area I got into after boots was raw denim, and then it was waxed canvas jackets, vegetable tanned leather bags, the works.It was much later that I learned that what I like falls into what they call “heritage menswear,” the niche of guys who like “fashionproof” clothes and footwear that can outlast the seasonal fashion cycles, both because they have subtly classic good looks and because they’re made to last.And of course, loving selvedge denim brought me straight to the world’s only four-way stretch selvedge at Hiroshi Kato! What is your process of creating content and what do you think are the strengths of it are? Maybe some weaknesses?Because has been my full time job for so long, and because I’m genuinely passionate about the space, I’m regularly thinking about products and brands and concepts and an idea for a video will often just come to me while I’m out and about. An example is a video I did this summer called “How to Not Wear Boots In Summer,” like what’s a guy who loves boots to do when it’s shorts weather? I came up with eight options. When I started making content, I was carefully trying to review the biggest brand names and also to answer commonly searched questions about leather, denim, and so on. My background is in making content for Google and that’s a good way to build an audience. After some six years, though, I’ve already made content for most of those common searches and I’ve built enough of an audience that I have a bit more freedom to just make content I find interesting, plus brands are more willing to work with me now, which is why I was able to get flown to India to shoot a few videos at shoe factories earlier this year.As far as weaknesses go, well, it’s mostly that my background is in content for Google, which means I don’t have a super strong brand or a super high number of subscribers relative to how long I’ve been making content. When people Google “red wing iron ranger review” they usually just want to see a review and then they watch it and leave rather than subscribing. So you could see that as a weakness, like I haven’t built a great platform for, say, releasing collaborations that I can reliably sell out for brand. My views increase slowly over time, they don’t spike on day one!What is your day-to-day style? (What are your go to pieces?)Usually it’s some combination of denim, canvas, and leather! I like classic, casual style and natural materials, I used to call it “grandpa fashion” until I learned that there’s a menswear culture that call it heritage. Basically, I don’t want to be embarrassed by seeing photos of my outfits in twenty years so I try to keep my looks timeless. In summer I do a lot of linen and loafers but as soon as it’s cooler, my go-to outfit is whatever raw selvedge denim I’m trying to fade, a t-shirt or casual button up (I really like the athletic fit options from Teddy Stratford), a leather jacket from Schott or a canvas jacket from Flint and Tinder, and some Goodyear welted boots — every week I’m wear testing a different pair, but my favorites are Thursday, Red Wing, and Grant Stone.I usually have a messenger bag as well, I’m a huge fan of the Indonesian brand Cravar. If I’m wearing a leather jacket then I’ll pick a cotton twill bag, otherwise it’s a leather bag. If I’m using a backpack it’s either Filson for cotton or Satchel & Page for leather.Oh, and if the weather is particularly cold I’m pretty much always wearing one of my three deck jackets, I’m a huge fan of that style.What made you passionate about shoes, especially boots and loafers? I’m going to say something controversial: Australian men are not known for dressing well. I actually saw a tweet recently that called us the worst dressed men in the developed world. My point is that we don’t think much about how to dress and what to put on our feet, especially when dressing casually, and boots and loafers aren’t part of the cultural landscape. We quite like Chelsea boots — only the ones from RM Williams and Blundstone — and boat shoes are fairly common, but otherwise we don’t do footwear that’s both high quality and casual. So I never thought about quality footwear until I moved to New York City, and I guess I experienced what they call the zeal of a new convert. Having never thought about this stuff until I was in my late twenties, boots and loafers were an exciting, brand new world to explore. Basically, living a life without high quality casual footwear made the topic more exciting to me than the average dude! Out of curiosity, what is the whole ordeal with you and Carl on boots vs loafers on Instagram?Haha! OK so there’s a YouTuber called Carl Murawski and we cover a lot of the same stuff: Goodyear welted boots, leather and denim, that kind of stuff. The main difference between us is that Carl’s an electrician and tradesman and a lot of his interest in heritage workwear like chunky Pacific Northwest boots and Carhartt jackets comes from the fact that he actually works in them. He likes fashion as well — plenty of his videos are about menswear for its own sake rather than as something to perform in at a jobsite — but when it comes to footwear, he’s largely about work boots. He therefore hates loafers because you can’t work in them, but they’re also not very formal, so what’s the point. If you’re dressing casually, wear boots.Me, I don’t pretend to be a tradesman, I just like menswear that’s casual and well made, a category loafers fall under. I actually really like loafers because they let you wear high quality footwear when it’s summer and you’re stuck in shorts and you can’t wear cool jackets or anything. The heat of summer strips a man of all the coolest things he can wear, like boots and jeans and jackets, but! You can still have well made shoes thanks to loafers!Anyway, we have a pretend rivalry over our different loafer philosophies that heats up every summer. We actually like each other a lot, though! I mean, I think we do…Where did your knowledge of fashion come from? (How did you learn about the fashion/textile industry?)To be honest, I only really knew about boots when I started the channel, and what I learned about menswear and textiles I learned along the way. It’s sort of like my previous career in fitness: I didn’t have any formal qualifications, but I got so interested in it that I spent hours reading studies and learning kinesiology, and when I started applying for jobs writing about it, I blew the other candidates out of the water. Like, dietitians I worked with told me I had the same working knowledge as a graduate in their field.In other words, I’m mostly self taught, but as for how do I know what I know today, it’s because Stridewise has let me travel all over the world to meet with brilliant figureheads in the space. Jeans factories in Quebec, a denim historian in London, a guy known as the Denim Prince of Vietnam, and a ton of people throughout the United States. The other day I shared on Instagram that I have a running list of fabrics I’m obsessed with and want to work with one day: the latest entries are broken twill, wabash, and heavy linen. So many people don’t know you can make linen that’s thick and tough! I like what Motiv Mfg and Division Road do with it in their jacket collabs. What do you like about KATO and what are some of the pieces you have?I think it’s really impressive that Kato are the only guys making selvedge denim with four-way stretch. I used to write a lot about performance fabrics (workout clothes) so I have an understanding of the different kinds of stretch that a fabric can have, and I know that Kato has made something special. Like a lot of guys in the heritage space, I was a bit skeptical about stretch denim, but Kato’s approach converted me and I own three pairs: 10.5oz black, 14oz indigo, and the stonewashed 17.5oz Mammoth. But lately I’ve really been loving the Anvil Sashiko jacket. I love sashiko and I’ve tried jackets from a half dozen brands but the fit has never been quite right for me. While the Anvil is more of a shirt jacket, it’s my favorite sashiko piece and it’s also my go-to travel jacket because it’s soft, not too heavy, and the chest pockets fit my passport! I got the washed version but I kind of want the dark indigo one because I think I’ve found the sashiko jacket that I want put my own fades into! Since your last visit here at our facility, was there any new knowledge you gained? Or anything you thought was interesting? I learned a ton during my factory visit, I’ve always wondered exactly how brands make pre-distressed denim and I finally got an understanding of it! Nick’s physical demonstration of how core-spun yarn works was also very illustrative, I’m able to conceptualize “stretch denim” a lot better now. Since then, I spent a lot of time exploring how to style denim jackets and denim shirts but the main things I’ve learned have been exploring Southeast Asia’s denim scene! I filmed a sitdown with VNRD — Vietnam’s Raw Denim group — and I’ve been learning about Indonesia’s place in the industry as well. A lot of folks think that all the shuttle looms that make selvedge denim are mostly in Japan and America, but there are actually a ton of them in Indonesia and a lot of brands that most Americans haven’t heard of that are making creative selvedge. I hope to visit them one day as well!
Meet Bentley Caldwell
Tell us a little about yourself. How did you go from working in music to fashion? I’m originally from a small town in Kentucky called Paducah. I was transferred to Nashville about 13 years ago with retail. I always tell people, “Retail brought me here, but music kept me here.” Shortly after moving to Nashville, I began pursuing a music career as a singer-songwriter. In 2018, while on tour in the UK, I came to the conclusion that I was finished with playing music. I finished out the tour, came home, won some awards and shut it down! Shortly after I hung up my music career, a friend hit me up. He had to record some videos for a new coaching business he was launching and had ZERO idea what to wear. I gave some clues and tips on what to wear and it blew his mind! He ended up becoming my very first client ever and Bentley Caldwell Styling was born! Could you share with us the experience of being featured in the NFocus Magazine? How did it come about, and what was your initial reaction? NFocus Magazine is a really prestigious magazine here in Nashville. I first had the privilege of being featured in NFocus as a model. When I was launching my styling business, NFocus reached out to a local designer to style their Men’s Style Issue. With it not being his area of expertise, he ended up referring them to me. I’ve styled their last three Men’s Style Issues (Gracing the cover of one!) and it’s been a beautiful relationship ever since. Seeing my face on the cover of a magazine was CRAZY! They didn’t tell me! I literally said, “Holy SH*T!” when I saw it! Haha It was such an incredible experience. I started writing a men’s style column with them as well! Truly grateful to them. What are some mistakes people tend to make when styling themselves? What is your creative process on how to create a good look? Following trends. Trends are FOREVER changing. If you try to keep up, you’ll end with a closet full of clothes you never really wanted and can’t wear anymore. When I’m creating a good look, for me, I always start with pants and shoes. Then, I work my way up. Shoes and pants are the anchor to any good outfit! Once you have those established, you can pretty rock any top you want! What is the most important thing to remember when styling someone? Each person is unique. They have a unique personality. A unique view of themselves. A unique set of life goals. My job is to unearth that. My job is to put them in a wardrobe that helps them look and feel their absolute best, not to put them in a costume. That way when they look at themselves, they see an elevated version of themselves. Not a caricature. What do you think is it about clothes that have been loved for a long time and remain unchanged that attracts people's interest? For me, I think it’s the memories these items hold. For example, I bought the green military jacket in the photo when I was in college at a clearance sale at The GAP. It was $9.99. I thought it was the coolest jacket! I wore it anytime I wanted to feel “cool.” When I moved to South Korea after college, I took it with me and it felt a bit like home. While I was over there, I bought that red pair of John Varvatos Chuck Taylors. At the time, that was an expensive sneaker for a formally broke college kid. $90 for some Chucks?? I ended up trading the original laces for the black ones. I immediately felt like a badass. I wore those shoes until the soles literally wore out. I keep them because they remind me of an important time in my life… The first time I ever leveled up. What are some of your favorite brands and designers? Obviously, I love Kato. I really dig the simplicity of Buck Mason. There’s a menswear designer here in Nashville named Eric Adler, that I really dig. His suiting is top-notch! I really love footwear as well! Two of my favorite bootmakers are White’s Boots and Danner out of the Pacific Northwest. And I LOVE a little sneaker brand out of L.A. called Brandblack. Some of the best sneakers on the market! What are some misconceptions about styling? A big misconception is that styling is just about the clothes and that’s 100% not true! I tell people all the time, “I’m not in the fashion business, I’m in the people business.” Styling is not “one size fits all” nor is it “copy and paste.” Each person is unique and has their own set of needs, wants and ideas of how they want to look. My job as a stylist is to distill that information to help them feel and look their best! As a stylist, you have to be able to have great people skills and expert problem solving skills as well. And I pride myself on having both! How did you hear about KATO and what do you like about our brand? Oh man! I first heard of Kato from a local store in Nashville called Franklin Road Apparel! I love denim. More importantly, I love selvedge denim, but the break-in process of raw selvedge is too rough! Haha When I found Kato’s selvedge with stretch… It was a game-changer! I love the fact that you get the selvedge denim look and feel, but you can actually move! I put my first pair of Pen Slims on and never looked back! Do you have any items from KATO and what do you like about them? Can you give us 3 tips on how you would style KATO? I have MULTIPLE items from Kato! I love the craftsmanship. Once you put on a Kato piece, you can tell it’s well made and it will last you for a very long time. For me, like I said earlier, a good look starts with shoes and pants. What better place to start than with a good pair of Pen Indigo Black Raw(My personal favorite wash) jean? From there, depending on the formality of where you’re going, toss on some sneakers and a tee shirt or some nice boots, button down, a jacket and you’re out the door! It’s really that simple! I like to toss on a bandana or a hat to round the look and add a little bit of flair!
The Vintage Collector
Tell Us About Yourself. I’m Deyvis but everyone calls me D. My enthusiasm for vintage style clothing is palpable, I have a diverse collection of flight jackets, selvedge jeans, boots, cameras, and All Stars sneakers. Living in beautiful Vancouver, Canada, provides a fantastic backdrop for my vintage fashion pursuits. I’m the marketing director for my city's public school district, my background as a high school teacher and counselor for over a decade undoubtedly gives me valuable insights into education and community engagement. I have a passion for cultures and languages, speaking English, Spanish, Japanese, and Portuguese opens up a world of opportunities for me to connect with people from diverse backgrounds and immerse myself in different cultures. My linguistic skills not only facilitate communication but also serve as a bridge for fostering meaningful connections and relationships across borders in fashion - it's a beautiful way to enrich my life and broaden my horizons! How did you get into vintage collecting? My journey into the world of fashion and culture started back in the 90s. Studying in Japan during my last year of high school has been an unforgettable experience, especially immersing myself in the *Amekaji style alongside friends who shared similar interests. In the 90s, the Amekaji style, characterized by its rugged yet stylish elements like selvedge jeans, engineer boots, and leather jackets, was gaining popularity, and it was amazing that I got to be a part of that scene. Brands like Levi’s, Red Wing boots, and Schott jackets were iconic staples of the era, reflecting a timeless appeal that still resonates today. My time in Japan likely not only influenced my fashion preferences but also enriched my understanding of Japanese culture and lifestyle. It was incredible how a single year abroad can leave such a lasting impact on one's sense of style and identity! * Amekaji, short for "American casual," is a style that blends elements of American workwear and casual wear. Where do you usually find your vintage items? Exploring second-hand stores for denim treasures in iconic Japanese neighborhoods like Ueno's Ameyoko, Osaka's Amerikamura, and Nagoya's Sakae and Osu Kannon it was an exhilarating experience! These areas are renowned for their vibrant street culture and eclectic mix of vintage finds. Discovering hidden gems would undoubtedly add an extra thrill to my denim hunting adventures. The excitement of stumbling upon unique pieces with their own stories and histories, all while immersing myself in the bustling atmosphere of these dynamic neighborhoods, have definitely made unforgettable memories. It's moments like these that truly capture the essence of fashion exploration and the joy of uncovering treasures in unexpected places. Apart from being a vintage collector, what style and era inspires you the most? I’m really drawn to the iconic fashion and culture of the mid-20th century, particularly the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. Those decades were rich with unique styles, from the tailored elegance of the '50s to the free-spirited vibes of the '60s and the eclectic, funky looks of the '70s. The American workwear aesthetic, with its rugged denim, durable work shirts, and classic accessories like hats and boots, are the styles that really inspirate me. There's a timeless appeal to those pieces, reflecting both functionality and a sense of rugged individualism that's deeply ingrained in American culture. It's fascinating how fashion from these eras continues to influence and inspire contemporary trends, demonstrating its enduring relevance and charm. These pieces not only exude a sense of authenticity but also embody a spirit of adventure and independence that resonates deeply. Embracing these styles allows me to not only connect with the past but also to express my own individuality and appreciation for craftsmanship. Besides being a school administrator, what do you like the most being a content creator as a side hobby? My passion for vintage clothing has blossomed into a fulfilling hobby that not only brings me joy but also allows me to connect with like-minded individuals around the world. Sharing my love for vintage fashion and inspiring others with my style is a beautiful way to create meaningful connections and friendships. It's remarkable how fashion can serve as a universal language, bringing together people from diverse backgrounds who share a common appreciation for timeless aesthetics. While fashion may fade, style remains eternal speaks volumes about the enduring allure of personal expression and individuality. Spreading love for vintage clothing and inspiring others—it's a testament to the power of shared passions to bring people together and create lasting bonds. What is your most memorable vintage item you have? My most memorable vintage pieces are my vintage Converse sneakers and Levi's jeans jacket. These iconic items not only hold historical significance but also carry personal memories and stories that make them truly special to me. My vintage Converse sneakers, preserved as collectibles, reflect a reverence for their cultural and fashion heritage, while my Levi's jeans jacket, though worn less frequently due to its vintage nature, adds a touch of authentic style to my wardrobe. It's understandable that you'd want to preserve these treasures, considering their rarity and sentimental value. Each time I wear my Levi's jacket or admire my Converse sneakers, it's like stepping back in time and honoring the enduring appeal of vintage fashion. Each piece holds a special place in my heart, not just as items of clothing, but as pieces of history and personal expression—they're a testament to my passion for vintage fashion! What do you like about KATO and which item do you currently have? My admiration for the Kato brand truly shines through! It's clear that Kato holds a special place in your heart, likely due to their exceptional craftsmanship, attention to detail, and unique style. Their commitment to blending traditional styles and patterns with innovative techniques truly sets them apart. The fact that every piece I own from Kato fits me perfectly speaks volumes about their attention to detail and craftsmanship. It's as if each garment was tailor-made just for me, reflecting the brand's dedication to creating clothing that not only looks great but also feels comfortable and personalized. Kato's use of unique and high-quality textiles and materials further enhances the appeal of their pieces, ensuring both durability and style. It's clear that Kato's combination of superb tailoring and premium materials resonates with my discerning taste and appreciation for fine craftsmanship. Here's a breakdown of the pieces that I have from Kato: The Hammer Straight Natural Slub – Khaki 14OZ Selvedge: This pair of selvedge jeans likely boasts a unique texture and color, with the natural slub adding depth and character to the fabric. The Anvil Melton Wool Shirt Jacket in Dark Green: A versatile and stylish piece, this wool shirt jacket in olive color is perfect for layering and adds a rugged yet refined touch to any outfit. The Pen Slim - Indigo Raw 14oz Selvedge: These indigo raw selvedge jeans are a classic choice, offering a timeless look with their deep blue hue and sturdy construction. The Pen Slim – Silver Gray White 14oz Selvedge: This pair of selvedge jeans in silver gray white likely adds a contemporary twist to my wardrobe, offering a fresh take on denim with its unique color. The Vise Sashiko – Dark Indigo: Sashiko detailing adds a distinctive touch to this dark indigo piece, whether it's a jacket or another garment, showcasing Kato's attention to detail and craftsmanship. Each of these items reflects Kato's commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and innovation, making them standout additions to my wardrobe. They're sure to elevate my style and provide versatility for various occasions.
Rhett Smith
Tell us a little bit about yourself. I am a guitarist from Greenville, South Carolina. I’ve worked with a wide variety of artists over the years from death metal bands to Lyle Lovett. I am a bit of a serial hobbyist - I get into something and then become obsessed with it and have to learn everything about it. I guess I just have an appreciation for design and detail. I love coffee, denim, watches, architecture, and cars! What specific qualities and features do you prioritize when it comes to the guitars you play on tour? The main thing I look for in my touring instruments is reliability. Guitars by nature are fickle, and some more-so than others. With the temperature changes they can experience day to day and rattling around in a vault on a semi truck, it can be a recipe for disaster. Certain features can help mitigate these issues, I prefer a hardtail bridge - meaning the strings go directly through the body rather than anchoring in a tremolo unit. Another trend is using roasted woods in the construction, woods that are fired in an oxygen-free kiln to remove the moisture within increasing rigidity, resonance, and stability. Some have carbon fiber or graphite rods in the neck to keep them from warping or bending. I personally love gigantic baseball bat necks, and prefer them quartersawn too which is a way the log is split so the grain runs with the neck, those by nature are more resilient. I would be lying if I said aesthetic appeal was not a concern as well, I am a guitarist after all! I have a love for classic designs like the Fender Stratocaster and Telecaster, but with modern updates. My favorite color is surf green…you would laugh if you saw my guitar vault - everything is green. What was your journey as a guitarist that led you to Hardy and how did that unfold? I grew up around music, my mom and grandmother both play piano and my dad had a great knowledge and love of music that inspired me at a young age. I started playing because of John Frusciante of the Red Hot Chili Peppers. The song “Soul to Squeeze” specifically. I got my first guitar at 10, it was a red Ibanez. I became obsessed and around age 12 or 13 I started to get into punk rock and metal and it just really took off. I spent hours playing Blink and Metallica songs. Soon after I hit my “6 hours a day phase” and got really into shred guitar, guys like Paul Gilbert and Richie Kotzen, and more extreme metal styles. Then I went to college and studied Jazz - I love Wayne Shorter, Bill Evans, Cannonball Adderley, Joe Pass. I did some work as a clinician with PRS Guitars out of college and moved to Nashville. I worked with a few artists there before I met my friend Lyle Lovett and began working with him. During some downtime I met Justin that also plays guitar with Michael (Hardy) and we began playing together around 4 years ago shortly after Hardy decided to take his songwriting career on the road as an artist. The musicians I look up to today are the same ones I always have - I appreciate roleplayer guitarists in bands that write great songs more than shredders today though. People like Teppei Teranishi from Thrice, Mike Einziger from Incubus, Paul Waggoner from Between the Buried and Me. Also guys I don’t necessarily try to play like but have been innovative and adaptive over their careers, I still love John Frusciante and Tom Delonge. We've heard that you exclusively wear black denim during tours. Could you share the reasoning and why KATO was selected as a preference for tours? Yes, that’s true. I was on a quest to find the best black selvedge denim for some time. Normally when you find a black fabric it will have a black warp with a white weft thread, and I love that look too - but for my stage pants I really wanted a blacked out, inky looking pair but still had a nice selvedge Id as some call it. I also wanted something relatively lightweight for all the running around I do, but when I discovered the Kato pairs with the 4 way stretch, it was almost too good to be true. The exact combination of features I was looking for, made out of a super breathable fabric from a reputable Japanese mill and then assembled in the USA. They’re just perfect all around for me. I started wearing the Needle and Pen cuts, but have recently gravitated to the Scissor fit, they lend themselves well to cuffing and get great stacking fades. Normally if I wear a hemmed pair with little break I still go for the Pen. I probably keep 4 or 5 pairs in my stage rotation. But for everyday use I like to wear a pair until they’re destroyed and then start over. Could you share the backstory to your family's history and knowledge with selvedge denim? How did this inspire your current style? Absolutely. My grandfather was Louis Batson Jr. of the Louis P Batson Company. He was instrumental in the textile industry, working alongside people like Roger Milliken and Kiyohiro Tsuzuki. Growing up in the southeast, textiles were everything. The cities were created and planned around the mills and those mills were the lifeblood and driving force behind not just the economy but the culture. My grandfather sold the looms to esteemed mills that made the great denim of our time like Cone Mills in Greensboro, NC. He even had a shuttle loom in his basement at one point! My style was definitely inspired by this. It’s a way to always have a piece of my family close by, and when you mix that with my obsession with detail - denim is just the perfect representation of that. I think my style is a lot like the guitars I go for - modernized classics. Things that appear timeless but with a cool edge. Maybe the average person doesn’t even realize, but I like that when you see someone rocking a cool pair on the street you have an instant bond. A head nod is all it takes to let someone know you see and appreciate what they’re wearing. The textile industry ran a great race for years, but as the economy began to boom and industry and demand grew, it became more about optimization and automation. How to produce more, faster. The exact opposite of what makes these heritage-style fabrics prized today. We saw hand operated shuttle looms phased out, shipped overseas for pennies on the dollar, and now we wish things were made like they were back then. I think that’s part of what draws me to denim and these specialty fabrics today. It’s a symbol of quality and craftsmanship, it’s a way to hold onto something cool from the past but it looks just at home today as it ever did. It’s such a small dedicated group that cares to produce these amazing fabrics in this more laborious way, and that’s something I like to support.
A One On One With White's Boots
As the legend goes, Edward White established a one man shoe shop in Connecticut before the Civil War. He was the first of three generations of bootmakers to span from 1853 to 1972—a remarkable feat for a family business in America. Edward never dreamed the ‘White boot’ would soon be a source of pride to lineman and log drivers and smokejumpers in the Pacific Northwest. His only dream was to make a good boot and get paid for it. What makes White’s Boots stand out from other American Made brands? That after 170 years, we still build our boots the same way. Old school craftmanship. We're one of the last remaining boot manufacturers in the states that still offer a hand-welted Stitchdown product. There's a pretty significant difference between our Handsewn Stitchdown(hand-welted) boots and standard Stitchdown boots. During the hand-welting process, the bootmaker uses an awl and thread to stitch the vamp (the piece of leather that comprises the toe and main body of the upper) directly into the insole of the boot, 3 stitches to the inch. In addition to removing the need for either the canvas welt strip associated with a Goodyear Welt, or the glue associated with a standard Stitchdown, a hand-welt is by far the most durable construction type available - a very slow one-boot-at-a-time process. We're still very hands-on when it comes to the boot ordering process. We have a team that will analyze each customer's foot tracings and measurements to ensure they're getting the best fitting pair of boots for their specific feet. If you're local, we have dedicated fitting specialists at our retail store in Spokane that will take an even closer look. Every now and then, a customer will require their own set of custom Lasts to help with fitting issues. We still make those by hand through a process that hasn't changed since the early 1900s. What makes your customers appreciate White’s and why do you think they wear your boots? We feel that our customers recognize our boots are unmatched when it comes to comfort and value. The initial investment might be more expensive, but over the lifetime of a White’s boot, that expense is made up. Having the ability to resole and fully rebuild your boots at half the cost of a new pair ensures longevity. It's a "pay more, buy less" way of thinking. Most people will wear our boots because of the fit and comfort. The higher arch support you get from our lineup Arch-Ease™ Lasts helps align your back and keep your posture correct. Otto White spent 20 years studying the anatomy of the foot and found his way to a ‘scientifically built’ boot. In 1926, Arch-Ease™ was trademarked. We currently offer more than 15 different Lasts and have a team of experts to help each customer find the best fit for their feet. Can you share a moment or story as a bootmaker that encouraged you? The best part of being a bootmaker is in the training of other bootmakers. It’s very time-consuming and difficult to learn the art of shoemaking. It takes about 2000-3000 pair, that’s about 3 years to really get the process down. It’s a great feeling seeing a bootmaker that you have trained to be able to be a successful bootmaker himself. What do you like about White’s Boots? I enjoy the heritage of White’s Boots. That I am one of the few bootmakers left in the world that knows how to make these great boots. Still making them truly by hand.
Meet Frank Tkachenko: Digital Marketer & Style Expert
Tell us a bit about yourself: How did you start your career and what made you get into content creation? Hey, everyone! My name is Frank Tkachenko, a 26-year-old digital marketer living in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. While I’m not a full-time content creator (yet!), I’ve been posting men’s fashion inspiration on @stylesofman and www.stylesofman.com since 2016 when I was a college student trying to step up his style game. While I tried to find my own personal style, I decided to give content creation a shot as I documented my own style journey. Beyond grateful for the friends and community I’ve been able to help build along the way. Which aspects of content generation do you most enjoy? What are the major challenges behind it? The process of idea -> execution -> posting -> listening can have many twists and turns, but nothing beats the satisfaction of spending time on a piece of content and finally clicking that “Post” button. There have been many instances when I’ve been daunted by a collaboration with a brand as I’ve been pressed against a deadline, but wrapping up a shoot and coffee-fueled editing spree and being happy with the final result is just so satisfying. Like many things in life, the hardest part is getting started. Just gotta pick up that camera and remember why you fell in love with the process in the first place.Being a content creator - even part-time - isn’t always as glamorous as many think. Working a full-time job and wrapping up a long work day only to need to start right back up with conceptualizing or executing on a piece of content can be difficult. You have to be your own boss with this kind of thing. Then there’s the ever-changing structure of the platforms we post on like Instagram, where a seemingly simple algorithm change can derail your entire process. Worrying about things such as likes and comments, while ultimately vanity metrics, can be incredibly stressful. I’ve been burnt out more than a handful of times; it can be legitimately draining. The most important piece of advice I can offer is to remember why you started in the first place.Fall in love with the process and the rest will come easy. How did you get into fashion and how would you describe your style? When I was a freshman in college in 2015, I was big on the self-development craze (still am) and thought that the “look good feel good” idea was something I could explore by improving the way I dressed. I was very active on Reddit fashion subreddits like /r/malefashionadvice and while my first step into fashion was the then-stylish OCBD + chinos + desert boots trend, I started developing my own personal style.Ultimately, I think my sense of style is pretty eclectic. I love the classic selvedge + boots looks as much as I enjoy dressing “techy” in performance fabrics and sneakers. That’s what I love about fashion; you can pick and choose looks that you enjoy and splice them together into a style of your own. Monday doesn’t need to look like Friday. What was the story behind your flat lays? How does your style communicate to your audience? Apart from my written blogs, flatlays / outfit grids were my first form of original content. I’ve always loved design and seeing things placed neatly in interesting ways, so this format was a perfect fit for me. In my eyes, the flatlay is a way to get inspiration for an outfit while visualizing yourself in it. We’re not all 6’2” shredded models, which is what 90% of men’s “lifestyle” content was back then. Outfit grids let you picture yourself in the clothes without the pressure of looking a certain way. Fashion is for everyone. Whose style do you admire? Why? What are the core elements/principles of the style of others you admire? Oh, man, this is a tough question. There are so many great creators out there that dress sharp. Nate (@cuffington) is someone I followed for quite a while before I even started making my own content. I get lots of inspiration from his more rugged/dark Americana-type looks.Lately, I’ve also been drawing inspiration from Devan (@devanondeck). He’s a great example of someone who likes to go against the grain with his style and always incorporates unconventional pieces like kimonos while styling them perfectly. What do you think are the most critical aspects of styling and what advice would you suggest for anyone looking to style? The most important piece of advice I learned when beginning to dress more stylishly was to value what you like above the opinions of others. Sure, we all love receiving compliments on what we wear, but dress for yourself first and foremost. Others don’t care nearly as much as we might think.Whether you dress more “basic” or enjoy throwing a curveball into the mix, “owning it” goes a long way when it comes to looking good in the clothes you wear. Confidence is key. What are some of your favorite products by KATO? How would you style it on a day-to-day basis? I ride or die for my KATO denim. Catch me wearing my “The Pen” 4-way stretch denim questionably often in the cooler months. Beyond comfortable, especially once broken in, and pairs well with just about everything. Don’t sleep on the Ripper shirts either; my ivory Waffle Double Gauze from the SS22 collection is easy + breezy to style. The fabric is just so cool.
Actor Daniel Victor
Tell us a bit about yourself: What inspired you to become an actor, and what made you pursue music as well? I am a 28-year-old artist and creative, based out of Brooklyn, NY. I grew up loving to watch movies over and over again with my parents and acting out scenes for them. Seeing my favorite actors get to “live” different lives through the roles they played seemed like so much fun to me, and I would love to bring as much joy to people as my favorite actors have brought to my childhood. As far as music, I loved the stories people were telling. There was always something different playing in my house or in the car so I was exposed to a slew of genres since I was little, and each one stuck to me a little bit. It wasn’t until my 6th or 7th grade English Teacher (Mr. Shaver) taught us about poetry, that I started writing my own, which led to want to become a musical artist as well. I feel like I’m my happiest when I’m performing in one way or another. Can you tell us more about your upcoming project(s)? Have you done anything that was fun and challenging? I do a lot of different work in the creative field! I shoot and edit content for brands, am a part of commercial & print campaigns, develop recipes to cook alongside professional chefs, train with professional trainers and coaches in various modalities and create my own music. I feel like that keeps life extremely fun and entertaining, but is also very challenging! I’m excited for new singles (that I’ve been working on since the pandemic started) to get finished, episodes of Epicurious filming soon, and more travel in the pipeline. A specific challenge would be making sure that everything comes out how I want it to. I’m a bit of a perfectionist so not having complete control in some processes is TOUGH for me, but I smile, do my best and carry on. Describe your creative process? What is it about the way you do what you do, that you feel might separate you from others? Since I have a bunch of different projects going on at one time, my brain tends to hop around from task to task. I think my creativity and “process” comes from working on something completely for a short amount of time, and then jumping to the next task for a bit, and then a third. Hopping from project to project lets me see things with fresh eyes more often, and also helps me get out of any box that I’m in mentally. I also love listening to Chillhop Beats while I work, solely for the fact that it will usually end in a few new lines or verses I can use as I freestyle to myself. Which fictional/nonfictional character would be the most exciting to meet in real life? This may sound childish, but I think if I ever met Winnie the Pooh, I’d break down and cry. Winnie the Pooh was a huge part of my childhood. So much so that my sister and I actually got matching Pooh and Piglet tattoos together. There’s something about his purity and cheerful approach to life that makes me so happy and grounds me. A stroll around the Hundred Acre Wood with Pooh would be a peak life moment. How do you manage your time as an actor and content creator on a day-to-day basis? Do you ever have scheduling conflicts? I have scheduling conflicts ALL the time and the majority of my stress comes from the sporadic nature of how my calendar fills up, BUT I have gotten much better about my time management and organization. Keeping a calendar has become a ritual for me and now, any plan (or potential plan) gets put into my color-coded calendar so I know what’s coming up. I also am a big fan of to-do lists and journaling now which helps me keep things much more organized both in my schedule and in my brain . What is the hardest part about acting? What's the best piece of advice for newcomers who are looking to pursue their career in the arts? After an audition, waiting to hear back on whether or not you got the role is the hardest part. It’s tough to live in a constant state of limbo, but it’s important to remember that there are SO MANY other roles out there, that you should apply for as many as you can! Don’t get too hung up on one. For those looking to pursue a career in the arts, I would say to make sure that your heart is in it and it makes you happy. Focus more on the art part than the career part. You also need to have thick skin (not everyone will love your art as much as you do). What's your styling philosophy? How does your style fit into your lifestyle? My style philosophy is a mix of 2 old adages: “if you look good, you play good” “Dress for the job you want, not the job you have” I do my best to dress in what makes me feel confident. A good outfit can boost your mood, be a conversation starter, land you a job, get you scouted or be the reason for a second date! I believe that what a person wears is the outward expression of who they are on the inside, so I dress like me. Wear what you want to wear and what makes you feel good. That’s how you get your own style. Nobody dresses like you better than you. What are some of our items you like to wear from Kato? Any personal pieces? You already know I LOVE just about everything I get from Kato. The selvedge denim has really revolutionized the way that I look at jeans in general, and has made me appreciate the look and feel of selvedge denim pieces. Big fan of the slim jeans and how they give my body a nice silhouette while still allowing me freedom to move around. I also have a bit of a jacket fetish, so the Blade Denim jacket and new Chore Jackets that dropped this spring have been pretty consistent staples for my outfits. Already excited for the Fall 2022 collection after getting a sneak peek at the showroom!
Meet Nicole Schneider: Stylist and Creator of Mongrels
Tell us a little about yourself. How did you start your career as a stylist? I studied film in college and began my career as an editor during the music video hay days. I proudly apprenticed cutting 35 mm on “Fargo.” Realizing I was more creatively inspired by fashion in film, I segued into styling for the directors and photographers I had been working with as an editor. What does a typical day look like? I’m up early as I rescue dogs (I presently have eight,) when I’m not working as a stylist. If I’m not a shoot, it’s coffee, lots of emails from designers to keep up on, appointments at showrooms and sourcing online, fittings with clients, then home to the pack. What was the most memorable work you have done? I am grateful for so many amazing opportunities I’ll just mention what pops into mind first, dressing Iggy Pop was a dream come true, multiple musical guests like Greta Van Fleet on “Saturday Night Live,” and the Oscars and international press tours with Tom Hardy. How do you balance your personal and professional life? They run together and coexist fairly well. When things get tough I try to find a way to laugh instead of crying. There is an absurdity in the importance of so many things. How do you select the denim for celebrities or for shoot? Denim is one of the most personal, difficult items to nail for a client. It’s a process learning each person’s specifics when it comes to jeans, but once I have it down I am constantly looking for new designer’s that match their taste. How did you find KATO and why KATO denim? See above. I found KATO while searching Instagram for Tom Hardy and knew it would be a great match. Cut to the red carpet premiere for “Venom, Let There Be Carnage.” The Items featured on this post: Hammer Straight 10.5oz The Stamp Tee
Sy From Off Track Motorcycle
Tell us about yourself. What made you run your motorcycle gear shop? I am one half of OFF TRACK Motorcycles, a retail and showroom, based in Long Beach, CA. I’ve been riding for more than 20 years - all different styles. It made sense to take that experience and open a shop - one that covered everything while developing its own brand. Dealerships seemed too corporate/commercial for retail. There seemed to be no connection between the customer and shop. This has been something I’ve been personally drawn to and we wanted to share a place that has almost everything for our customers. We have a great selection of genuine motorcycle wear with great service. This is where I saw the opportunity to open OFF TRACK. What is your favorite motorcycle you have owned? I’ve been toying with the idea of having a supermoto for some time. Because of that, my fav bike at the moment would be my ‘19 KTM 690SMCR. It’s the perfect bike for tearing up the track, dirt, or street - all in stock form. So far, I’ve taken it twice to Buttonwillow Raceway and plan to do more track days with it. Love my Dyna too.. We heard you did a food drive for a local shelter. Can you tell us about it? During the Holidays, it was only right we gave back. It was our turn to help the less fortunate so we helped run a Thanksgiving food and Christmas toy drive at the shop. We’ve filled 2x 40 gallon cans with donated food and a shopping cart full of toys to the Long Beach Rescue Mission Samaritan House. For new riders taking the motorcycle safety course, we offer a discount to help them with the items they need to take the class. OFF TRACK definitely gives back.What do you like to wear when you ride your motorcycle? Denim is a staple - on or off the bike. It’s something we wear 90% of the time. We ride so the clothes we wear have to stand up to that lifestyle. Who would you recommend to try KATO 4-way stretch selvedge jeans? When it comes to riding, it can become work if your pants don’t give. There’s a reason why there’s gussets and elastic material in motorcycle wear. I believe you should be comfortable when you ride. There’s a time and place for stiff shit. If you prefer true premium denim and look for comfort, it’s the 4-ways. These pants are primo.
Meet Sound Mixer Christopher Cole
Tell us about yourself and your sound mixer work. Growing up in the 80s, I decided I wanted to be a musician/music producer. After I graduated from engineering school in 95, I worked at Music Grinder Recording Studios in Hollywood. During that time I worked closely with Death Row Records whose production staff was highly influential to me. Later, my friend, Ron Stivers, bought a record store in Pasadena, and with our other friend, Ras G, we subsequently started a record label called Poo-Bah Records. I produced and engineered many of our releases. During this time I began studying Jazz piano improv with Bobby Bradford, who cut his teeth touring with the Ornette Coleman band in the 60s. Outside of music I discovered playing tennis was a good way to break up sitting, making music all day. As often as I can, I still go out and play. I took an eight hiatus from the music world following my heart to San Francisco where I received a history degree at SFSU, worked for Apple and GoPro before moving back to Los Angeles to pursue my current roll - Sound Mixer for Film and Television. What is your inspiration for your work? I truly enjoy my job. This career brings together all of my passions from music, art, fashion, history, science, production and culture. So it’s never boring for me and always engaging. The lessons I learned and people I met early on working at Music Grinder Studios still serve as inspiration for me. That studio was like my university and a daily portal from my solitude apartment life, into the crazy world of the mid to late 90s music industry scene. I’ve always been a bit introverted but then realized I’m also comfortable around artists. Today, I work with various other artists, not just musicians. In this space I’m allowed to work with a collaborative spirit, on a team and with a purpose. Lastly, there are so many other sound mixers out there who, indeed, are so incredibly creative and inspiring to me. From the work they do to the generosity of the entire sound community, I’ve found a home among them. Who is your most respected musician? The person who comes to mind for me would be, Quincy Jones. It’s not necessarily his music that does it for me, but, I appreciate his approach to life and his craft. As I understand it, he started out playing bebop trumpet in the late 50s, then moved into writing and selling his songs. He didn’t stop there. Quincy continued to perfect and elevate his craft leading to his storied successes in the 80s and 90s. All of this while remaining, seemingly, refined and sophisticated in his own personal style. As a man and music producer, Quincy Jones appealed to me, inspiring the budding musician in myself to follow in his footsteps. What is your motto in your life and why? (Did it come from any of your experiences?) After returning to Los Angeles from my 8 year bid in San Francisco, I found myself lost, and really just trying to put my life back together. I was living with my Aunt in Baldwin Hills not really doing much for work and drinking way more than I should. I met this older dude at the local tennis courts named, Sam Gaines, whose friendship turned out to be a, literal, life saver for me. Sam is a brilliant person who has led a successful life and lived all over the world. Through my conversations with him (and my therapist) I arrived at what has become my motto: L.A.T.E. Love, Authenticity, Truth, and Empathy. These are the principles that guide my life and filters thru which I attempt to make each decision. I’ve come to appreciate that the gifts of love, shared knowledge, wisdom and friendship are among the most valuable. How do you like to style when you go to work? When I’m preparing for work, my first considerations are the weather and location. I think I inherited this sensibility from living in San Francisco where the weather changes throughout the day. Today I make sure to have all my necessary layers available in a bag or in the car. I like to think of my style as Russell Simmons meets Japanese-American Heritage. My daily selections will vary based on my actual filming location - exterior (outside) or Interior(indoors). Also, I have to consider the physicality of the scene. If I need to walk with the actor as they deliver dialogue, I’m usually in a tee shirt unless it’s cold or raining. My basic, everyday go-to outfit is hat, tee, button down, denim, Chups, and sneakers. This set up works all day in LA. What is your favorite pieces from KATO and why? My favorite two pieces from Kato are my Green Shirt Jacket and my French Terry Chinos. The shirt jacket has rayon details on the inner sleeve and neck line that allow for easy management of the jacket. I can quickly and comfortably roll up my sleeves, for example. The warm cotton has a stretch quality to the material which makes it breathable and easy to move around. I’ve even lost buttons on it and Kato has graciously replaced them for me! The AXE French Terry Chinos are my go to when the weather turns warm. I really like the way the light material stretches in the areas that count and drape beautifully in other areas. I also own a pair of 4-year old 4-Way Stretch Kato denim which faded ever so nicely over the years. Check out more of Christopher's work here: http://eyeseesounds.com/
KATO's Laser Designer
Tell us about yourself. What led you get into this industry? I moved to Los Angeles twenty years ago from Guatemala, pursuing my passion for graphic design. Being in an environment where you can't stop thinking about how to make things better has given me the ability to create a concept using laser technology, it solidified my passion for creating designs and I knew immediately that Laser Designer was the right career path for me. I love the idea of being able to leave a small mark of art on a pair of jeans. How did you learn how to design laser print? Well it all started as an operator, seeing how technology could be used in something that could only be done manually inspired me to create the same effect but using laser technology, throughout my career I was able to meet people who helped me achieve my goal. By being patient, paying close attention, and following instructions, I was able to use different concepts to create my own. Tell us sustainability of laser print? Some denim brands have adopted laser technology as a suitable substitute for traditional denim finishing methods such as sandblasting. It is the fastest growing and most widely accepted technique in the denim market, as this technology has made denim green. This method creates patterns such as points, lines, text, and even images that are run through a computer-managed process. The technology has been successful because the techniques are much safer, environmentally friendly, and economical. In addition, the advanced technology used in these techniques offers not only visual variation, but also gives designers the opportunity to make creative contributions. In addition, it saves time and reduces the cost of production. The technology can not only replicate the exact abrasion pattern, but can also create different types of worn-look designs and patterns. Can you tell us story of creating Ace Wash? Ace wash, was created as a concept as a demonstration of the qualities of laser technology, when the designer of KATO saw the design immediately he imagined it one of his garments, clearly being able to represent all the art and detail was always a challenge, but the result was excellent.
Photographer & Creative Director
Tell us a little about yourself and how you are involved with KATO.My name is Anthony - I am a photographer and freelance creative director based in Orange County, CA. I was originally born and raised in Hong Kong and in my early 20's moved over to the United States. At KATO I'm the guy that takes the photos and shoots the videos and I also assist their marketing team. How and when did you get into photography?I started taking photos when I was around 12 with my dad's old film camera. It's always been something I've been drawn towards and eventually brought me into filmmaking. I was never great academically in school so I always put myself headfirst into anything creative. My parents were both very encouraging as well in helping me develop my skills which made it an even better experience. How did you become a commercial photographer and graphic designer?I completed my BFA in Photography in San Francisco during which I also learned a lot of graphic design. I had a few jobs after I graduated that eventually grew into a small freelance client base - for some clients I did photography, for others I did advertising and graphic design. This grew into a multi service offering that brought on bigger and bigger projects and eventually pushed me to set up a business with my wife, Alexis. What can inspire you as a photographer?What I am inspired by is always changing. Sometimes it's music, films, or even other photographers. Over the last few years I've been more inspired by cinema than still images because they are a series of images that are pieced together to tell a story. My biggest inspirations (2 Cinematographers) are Emmanuel Lubezki and Roger Deakins. What goes through your mind while capturing KATO’s production? (ex. Showing texture, atmosphere… etc)I know there are 2 important things I try to portray when photographing KATO. There is the handcrafted, American made and no detail missed part and the part that focuses on creating pieces you can wear over and over again - whether it's 2015 or 2025, their pieces are timeless. It's hard to appreciate something like Japanese denim over the internet or even a nicely produced photograph - where you can't touch it or feel the texture so I try my best to show that visually. Nothing beats the real thing - like wearing KATO in person, but I think showing how cool you'll look in KATO is a close second. What do you like about KATO?I love the quality and attention to detail that is put into each product KATO puts out. I've been working with the team at KATO for 4 years now and I've never collaborated with a harder working, dedicated and passionate team. There is something great that is created when true passion is involved in the process and I think that is a testament to the quality of product they have as well as the people behind the brand. No one knows how much work, dedication and time is spent developing these products season after season yet they remain as passionate as they have from day one. As far as the actual product goes, I wear my KATO jeans all the time. I ride my motorcycle everywhere wearing KATO and you can really feel that 4-way stretch at work. I've ridden through the rain, through the SoCal desert and down to my local grocery store in KATO jeans and they never let me down.
Motorcycles & Denim with Martin Majano
Tell us a little about yourself and what you've been up to this year. My name is Martin Majano (Instagram : @northmenswear). I am the owner of North Menswear. We have 3 locations (San Clemente, Laguna Beach and Long Beach). I have a passion for art, motorcycle, cigars and denim although I would not call myself a purist. I am more about the comfort and flexibility of denim these days as I am always riding my Harley that comfort always comes first for me. When I am not riding, you will always find me spending time with my wife and kids as they are why I do everything I do. I recently started the North Moto Group with a group of like-minded friends who truly want to enjoy the ride. We put together weekly rides that can range from 50 miles to 500 miles. It just all depends on where we are going. I love to campout so we sometimes coordinate camping trips with our rides. What got you started in your love of denim? When I moved to NYC back in 2000 my cousin was working for a LEVIS concept store called Selvedge on Mulberry Street. That was my first taste of premium denim. From there he became the Director of Events for another brand called Earnest Sewn and brought me along to work with him. I became fascinated with the denim culture from that point on and it stayed with me from NYC to the West Coast where I eventually was introduced to other brands. What do you love most about motorcycles and if you could only have one which one would it be? I love the freedom of being on the road. When you are on a motorcycle, your senses are heightened and you can hear yourself thinking. It is you and the 2 wheels beneath you on the open road and it almost feels like church to me. Its truly liberating and I have been able to sort out any obstacles or challenging I am facing. I get to problem solve and I do not have many vices but riding has become one of them. I feel like I have the motorcycle I could ever want but I am eyeing an ARCH motorcycle which is Keanu Reeves company. Where do you see the American made denim industry going? I see the USA made denim industry reaching new heights. I think 2020 taught us a lot in regards to logistics and what can happen when we are too reliant on global trade. By manufacturing in the USA, we will have access to more brands I feel and we truly have seen a resurgence of American Made goods. I am really hopeful for the future of fashion especially with more sustainable ways of producing high quality garments in America. We at NORTH are on the verge of producing our Heritage Collection and we are excited to say that it will be made locally here in Los Angeles. How do you cuff your jeans? I do a single cuff as see in the photos so that the selvedge shows and they hit above my sneakers. Sometimes if I am wearing boots, I will leave them uncuffed. It depends on the look I am going for. For someone that has never purchased denim before, what advice would you give them? I would advise to go to a brick and mortar and try on different types of weights, fits and styles. Just like anything we do in life. Try it out until you find the best fit and fabric that suits your lifestyle.
Florence From French Chic Living
How did you get started in the business? It all started with my book French Chic Living published by Rizzoli. French Chic Living is my 6 book by the way.... When my kids were small, I slowly began looking back to the ways things were done when I was growing up in France as so many products we were using were creating problems.... Washing my son 's jeans again & again were destroying them, and made his skin itchy, the smell was not so great. either and nothing was ever feeling clean... So my book was all about time tested family recipes to take care of a house in a simple, healthy, organic way, from laundry to cleaning and more. My laundry detergent is made with Savon de Marseille which is the best cleaning soap and gentle for the skin. It has been used for centuries. We bring it from France and then all my products are made in America. What's your favorite product you sell? I love my laundry detergents as it is such an instant gratification to have clean laundry with a subtle scent and it makes your clothes feel better and better. All of a sudden all is good in the world. How do you go about creating a product from concept to testing? We start with an organic base and really just experiment with tips from my grandmother. We try which combinations work better, what makes you feel better after washing your jeans. We also create a scent with each products. Scents for me are extremely important it brings back or create an olfactory memory which bring a sense of well-being. Our palette is fresh, natural and subtle. What tips do you have for people who purchased the KATO denim detergent and spray? Never run out of them as they will help you maintain your jeans beautifully! Try all the different scents as you can match them with your mood.
Mike Farmer On Inspiration & Style
Tell us a little bit about yourself - what do you do for fun and how did you get into Instagram? I started my instagram account as a photo album because I kept getting a new phone and my photos would be gone. It quickly morphed into posting about clothes. At first I was trying to be anonymous and not show my face. Even before my instagram I was filming a lot at work and of my kids sports. Fun for me is just hanging out with friends and family. It doesn't matter what we do. I really enjoy my work too, sometimes you could call it fun. I'm also a big auto enthusiast, I used to race professionally, which was so fun. So anything to do with cars and trucks is fun! But at this point in my life the most fun for me is watching my kids in sports and as they get older, becoming adults. How did you get into fashion and how was your style developed over the years? Believe it or not, I started getting into fashion in the early 80's. I was in Jr. High and got my first Georgio Armani shirt. I didn't know who he was but I liked the eagle logo. Then I started noticing Gloria Vanderbilt and Calvin Klein jeans for girls. Guys could only get Levis or Lee where I lived. Maybe some off brands too. In high school it was Guess jeans and Marithe and Francois Girbaud. I would drive hours to find them. Remember there was no internet then. I started "pegging" them so they were more tapered. Sometimes I would buy girls jeans if that's all I could find. We had a retail surf skate shop and I was a buyer for clothes and hard goods. That's how I met a lot of pro skaters and rock stars. Thats when I got into a weird mix of rock and roll surf/skate wear, Stussy, Schroff, Maui and sons, and high end designer clothes like Jean Paul Gualtier, Gianni Versace, Kansai Yamamoto, among others. But denim was still a favorite. Diesel Jeans was probably my biggest go-to. Cochise, Saddle, were some of the cuts I had a lot of. Also Blue System. I went to Los Angeles a few times a year and would frequent Fred Segal and Maxfield. Melrose Ave shops etc. I saw Arnold Schwarzenegger and Maxfield once but he gave me a look like "don't you dare approach me". This was all in the early 90's. Late 90's I was busy working at a screen printing company and full time racing. 2000's brought more changes, kids. Re locating to Frankfort MI after some bad business choices and starting over. Now I was painting signs for a living. I got my first Selvedge jeans in 2005. Nudie regular Ralph. I still have them and wear them sometimes. I then became obsessed with selvedge. I have to order them from different shops as no stores around here has anything. I'm not sure how many selvedge jeans I have but I'm guessing 30 or so. Regular jeans, probably 150. Some are 20+ years old. So thats a somewhat short version of how I got into clothes! How do you put together your looks and where do you get your inspiration from? I don't really have a method for putting looks together. I've become a little weird about mixing brands. I feel like some brands are fine to mix and some shouldn't be mixed. Its just a weird thing I do I guess. I also wear a lot of skinny jeans. I think most guys my age look kind of silly in them. I probably look silly to some people too, but its all what you feel comfortable with. I like the way certain people look in skinny, slim, straight and even baggy! Some bootcut and flares are cool too. Inspiration definitely comes from instagram and the internet. Sometimes its more of seeing what I don't want to wear! I also think color is important. I don't wear a lot of color but I like it on people and think it plays a huge role in how they look. What are your favorite products by KATO? My favorite Kato products are the needle jeans and the blade jacket. The stretch fabric has really spoiled me. My work in very physical and the stretch selvedge helps a ton! Sometimes if I'm wearing regular selvedge and its bugging me I will go home and change into my Kato jeans. The way the jeans and jacket move with you and don't bind and pinch is so nice! I also really like the cut of the needle jeans. The Keith wash on my 14oz Needle jeans is a thing of beauty! Whoever does it is a genius. The blade jacket is also a work of art. For those new to denim, what are some things you'd pass down to those looking to get into the world of denim? For those just getting into denim: Don't baby your jeans. Wear them and enjoy them! Do your homework before you buy. Lots of companies have the measurements listed, use that for your size and not the tag size. I have jeans in sizes 28, 29, 30, 31, and 32 and they all fit similar. You've probably seen the advice to measure your favorite jeans and base your new jeans off those measurements. More expensive doesn't mean better. I have $800-1000 jeans that I don't like the fit. Sometimes I think companies over do it and they get too much fabric on the inside by the pockets and seems etc. and they end up not hanging right. The stretch selvedge jeans are far more comfortable and forgiving. Even some very traditional selvedge jean companies are starting to incorporate stretch. I will still wear non-stretch sometimes, but its getting less frequent. Give the jeans time. They will form to you but it takes many wears. In order to get good fades, you need to be active in your jeans. Simply putting them on and getting in your car and sitting at a desk will take forever to get good fades. Don't wash them unless they are dirty. Get the fit that you like. Don't be critical of others. Don't worry about what people think of you. Smile more. Pursue your ideas and remember it's never too late.
The Denim Hound
The Denim Hound is a denim reviewer, collector, and photographer. He runs thedenimhound.com where he has reviewed over 100 pairs of jeans from all over the world. His website and Instagram feed, @denimhound has been a leading source of denim information since 2016. The Denim Hound on Kato What I like about Kato is that they are always working to push innovation. In the denim world, there is a big emphasis on preserving heritage and reproducing clothing from the past. I think this is a very important aspect of it, and Kato is very inspired by vintage style, but I think there is not enough push for innovation. Kato really puts a lot of work into finding that balance between history and innovation. The beauty of fades Besides the obvious aesthetic beauty and complexity of denim fades, I think there is a psychological aspect to it. I think we are attracted to fades because it subconsciously communicates experience and loyalty. We have been around the block and know a thing or two. We have survived the friction of conflict and we stay loyal to the ones we love. Favorite product from KATO’ Right now I’m really liking The Vise Jacket in Moleskin. The vintage styling of it and the history of the fabric are all on point. Advice to the first raw buyer Always start with fit. Getting the fit right in both look and comfort is the difference between a pair of jeans you will wear every day for years or one that will sit in your closet. If you can’t go into a store to try them on, take the time to understand how to measure your jeans. Then find your best fitting pair of pants and measure those to compare with online size charts. If ever in doubt, email the store or brand to get some help. As far as washing raw denim, I like to do a soak when I first get raw denim to release some starch. This helps nice creases set in for great fades and actually prolongs the life of the denim. I suggest hand washing them about once every 30 wears. And NEVER put them in a dryer. This will shorten the life of your jeans.
Meet Brett From The LAFD
Tell us a little about yourself and what inspired you to become a firefighter I’m Brett, a firefighter, dad of three and husband. I work for the City of Los Angeles where I drive the ladder truck for Fire Station 2. I currently work in East L.A. (Boyle Heights), but have spent the majority of my 12 years on the job in Downtown L.A., Skid Row. I started my career as Wildland Firefighter on a Hot Shot crew, traveling the country fighting wildfires in remote locations for months on end. Ever since I could remember, I wanted to be a fireman. Drive the big truck, rescue the cat from the tree... that whole thing. But when I started studying the job in college I fell in love with it because of the community interaction, the challenge and variation of calls, and the brotherhood within the station.When I’m not running calls, I’m usually with my three kids enjoying the beach, going on camping trips, playing baseball with my two boys (go Dodgers!) and strapping my 18 month old girl to the front of my bike and going for a ride. What are the most fulfilling and challenging aspects in your line of work? Like every service job, I get to see the best and worst of the city. It can be dangerous and stressful…being up all night, seeing what we see everyday when responding to a wide variety of calls. But in the end, there is a great deal of satisfaction by providing such a valuable service to the community. My crew are like my brothers. We rely on each other and we have one common goal—to provide and protect the public. How impactful was 2020 for you as a firefighter? 2020 has been a crazy year to be working as a firefighter in L.A. It started with, Kobe (RIP), followed by the Los Angeles wildfires. The riots took the city hostage…then COVID struck us and changed our fire department, community and put a—usually revived, upbeat and growing city—to sleep. Working through that and seeing more people forced to homelessness and small business shop owners close up was hard to see. But as a firefighter and constant figure in the community, we are hopeful and plan to help L.A. come back stronger than ever. What do you like about selvedge denim? I’m an active guy. Besides playing with my kids, I love to skateboard and as I’ve gotten older (and wiser) I’ve learned to only have in my closet what can stand the test of time and still look good. Selvedge denim can take a beating and still look good at the end of the day. What do you enjoy about KATO's denim After being in a stiff uniform for several days at a time, my KATO jeans have been my go-to. The second I get home in the morning from work, I have to get ready to be a full time dad. My KATO jeans are what I grab to put on, get comfortable and to start my day. Perfect for wrestling the kids or going on a coffee date with my wife.
Meet Luis, The KATO Sample Sewer
Tell us a little about yourself and how you were introduced to sewing I started early with sewing. I was curious about the construction of jeans so it was always something that interested me. How did you learn to sew?I taught myself, my curiosity began to grow more and more and eventually I started teaching myself. Through trial and error I really developed my craft. Favorite sewing technique? Using the Union Special Machine, I find it makes it much easier to use by pressing before I begin sewing. The Union Special #1400 is a classic sewing machine used by the greatest denim makers. A traditional machine that demands plenty of upkeep and care, it is a crucial part in the construction of KATO garments.
The KATO Pattern Maker - 5 Minutes With Nikolay
Meet Nikolay, he works with KATO as our lead pattern maker and has worked with some of the most noted brands in the denim industry. His unmatched attention to detail with his passion for denim is a big part of the reason you see the quality and fit stand the test of time in our garments. How long have you been working with patterns and textiles? 30 years What inspired you to get into the industry? My first rigid Levi’s and rock culture. What's your favorite thing about designing for KATO? Great fabrics, construction details links to vintage denim traditions. What makes KATO a unique brand from others you have worked with? Great team that knows and loves what it does. Favorite KATO product? I can’t name one but the traditional 5 pocket rigid jeans at the top of the list…
Q&A With MacCallister Byrd
This week we sat down with our friend and actor MacCallister Byrd to see what he's been up to in Los Angeles. Check him out on Instagram here. Tell us a little about yourself and what you're up to these days Hello! My name is MacCallister Byrd (Mac if you'd like) and I am an actor from Chicago. I have been living and working in LA along with my beautiful fiancé and our 2 year old dog. Most mornings I can be found on my back patio talking to my succulents and drinking my coffee. I really love the outdoors. Often when LA gets to be too much I'll take trips to local hidden mountain ranges to escape and hike. Also recently I've been working with a small team on creating new content which includes a podcast, short films, and music. What does fashion mean to you in your line of work? In the business of entertainment in Hollywood, fashion is a very unique concept. Essentially, if you do it right, you can pretty much wear whatever you want! Or maybe that is just how I see it - I can show up to a red carpet event in a nice suit and match it with a fresh pair of Jordans. One day I can rock a vintage tee with basketball shorts and some beat up chucks. The next I'll put on a nice button down and chinos and look totally different. I guess that is what fashion means to me specifically. Having the versatility and pushing the limits of the norm while still being fashionably logical. My closet has a wide array of threads. How did you get started in acting and how do you keep yourself motivated? Well. I really fell in love with acting in high school. I was primarily an athlete so I never had enough time to fully immerse myself in the acting world at that point. Once college rolled around it was either I keep playing baseball and follow that path that I had known for quite some time, OR, go down the acting route and try something I had always wanted to do. So from that point I decided to put all my efforts into the theater. I graduated from Illinois State University with a degree in theater studies integrated in the performing arts and moved to LA right after. I stay motivated pretty easily. I have visions of being on billboards and seeing myself in these big roles and that definitely keeps me hungry. Most challenging part about being an actor in LA? Dealing with no. Acting work is a lot like an iceberg. You only see the little bit of the success while in reality there is a lot more that happens under the surface. A lot of the time losing out on a role can have nothing to do with natural ability. There had been an instance where I lost out on a series regular role because I was too tall. ITS CRAZY! But, it's important to not take things personal and to also know, for me, it's never a matter of if, but when. I can only control what I can control, and for me that's doing the best I can do for every opportunity that comes my way. What's your favorite role you've played so far? As of right now I will have to say Private Hank Fisher on CBS' Strange Angel. Strange Angel was a period show that is set in the 1940s in Pasadena California. The series involves real life events that took place around times of WWII and aerospace. I was fortunate to do my own stunts including being suspended on a 100ft bridge over the course of a night. I got to wear an authentic soldier uniform while smoking period accurate non filtered cigarettes that made my head spin after 50 different takes. Just experiencing the grand scale of such a fun and exciting Hollywood project will stay with me for a long time. Also recently I had just wrapped filming on a indie movie titled 'Evan Wood' that should come out sometime in 2020. The cast and crew were an amazing pleasure to work with along with director Niki Byrne who had such a great vision for the film. What everyday items do you carry on you no matter where you go? Iphone, leather key clip, old trifold wallet, and some headphones of some sort. I also tend to walk around with my reusable water bottle that is decked out with a lot of decals. More often than not I can be found wearing a hat too. It's easy and can really complete whatever look I am going with for that day. What's your favorite KATO piece and why? My favorite Kato piece hands down is the short sleeve pineapple/floral shirt. I wear it all the time. It's a perfect shirt that can be worn in versatility - I can dress it up or down. To the beach or to an event. The fabric is also breathable so I can wear it comfortably too. It is a timeless and essential piece of my wardrobe.
Made In America: Randolph
This week we sat down with our friends at Randolph to learn more about their story. Known for their rich heritage in manufacturing certified military eyewear, they produce some of finest and most durable eyewear we've ever seen. They also make the perfect holiday gift if you're shopping for some premium, built to last American made eyewear. Shop here. Tell us a little about Randolph and how/why their products are made in the US. Our founders, Royal Air Force navigator Jan Waszkiewicz and machinist Stanley Zaleski immigrated to America in the years following World War II, they had a dream: to build the world’s finest eyewear. Together, they used their expertise to design the tools and machinery to build a proprietary 200-step manufacturing process, and engineered nearly indestructible frame joints. In 1973, Randolph Engineering was born - named after our home-town of Randolph, Massachusetts. We began to see traction with our Authentic Aviators in 1978, when we became a sub-contractor for the US Military. In 1982 we became the premier supplier of Military Aviators for Fighter Pilots, and we’ve held our Military contracts ever since. Our founders believed in doing things the right way. That’s why we handcraft our frames in the USA - it’s not the cheapest or the easiest way of doing things, but that’s not the point. We are focused on quality, authenticity and durability. We believe our American workforce are some of the best in the business. Our factory is a hive of highly-skilled talent and engineering - true artisans, some of whom have been with us for over 30 years(!). Today, we’re still handcrafting our frames out of our factory in Randolph, virtually the same way we did when we started over 45 years ago. One of our mottos is “Never compromise.” - this is something we live by. “The American dream of being successful was entirely achievable through hard work, perseverance, passion, a targeted direction and a strong emphasis on quality.” - Peter Waszkiewicz, President & CEO Does Aviation play a big inspiration still today in the design and craft of Randolph eyewear? Randolph sunglasses are - and always have been - purposefully engineered. Whether that’s for use in the cockpit or fishing on the water. Our sunglasses are designed with both fashion and function in mind. While some frames are more style oriented than others, they’re all built with the same integrity as our Authentic Military Aviator. “Respect where you come from. Reinvent where you’re going.” - these are the words of our founders, and we still live by them today. We are inspired by our customers who choose independent brands, risk-takers, tastemakers and adventurers who go against the grain. They inspire us to create new styles that will last a lifetime of experiences. Our frames will always have a nod to the aviation industry - whether that’s in the bayonet temple tips, designed to make our sunglasses easy to slide in and out of a pilot’s visor - or our military-style wingtip logo. Aviation always has - and always will be - a huge part of Randolph USA. Just take a look at our Instagram tagged images to see hundreds of pilots wearing our framers both in and out of the cockpit. What's the must-have pair this season everyone should have? It’s got to be our latest release, the 23k White Gold Aviator, paired with our Polarized Cobalt SkyTec™ mineral glass lenses. These frames mean business. Built to the same specs as our Military Aviator and finished with luxurious 23k White Gold applied at 5x the industry standard. You can wear these frames for almost any occasion - from a hike in the mountains to a lake-side wedding. Our Cobalt lenses, released in 2019, have been a huge hit with our customers and it’s easy to see why. Their stunning blue iridescent mirrored outer grabs attention in the best way, but it’s the outlook that makes them even better. The Cobalt lens features our signature AGX green based lens, which is engineered to highlight nature’s relaxing green/yellow wavelengths, with premium polarization to protect from harmful glare. You really have to give them a try to see and feel the difference. For the months of November and December 2020, we’re also donating to an incredible non-profit called Angel Flight NE. For every frame sold, we’re making a donation to help them on their mission to provide free life-saving flights to those who need medical care outside of their geographic location. Since they were founded in 1996, they have provided over 80,000 free flights with the help of 400+ pilots who donate their planes, fuel and time. We’re so proud to be supporting this amazing cause. Why do you think it is important for American made products and brands to support each other? For us, it’s about independence, quality and authenticity. By making our frames by hand right here at our factory in Massachusetts, we’re able to have full control over our manufacturing processes and adjust them accordingly - we craft our frames in small batches and they’re all tested for quality and integrity. We know our frames inside-out. We know what works and what doesn’t, we’ve been perfecting our craft for almost 50 years, and it shows. When it comes to authenticity, our frames were originally designed for aviators (hence the name). We aren’t pretending to make ‘pilot style’ glasses - we have the heritage and the engineering background. We think this is the same for many other truly American brands like us, they know their history, their material, their craft and their customer. We often find our values align perfectly because of these things. It’s important to keep eachother going and sharing the word to our customers because they too share these values. We believe everyone has the right to choose, and many conglomerates are taking that away from the customer by launching ‘new’ brands that appear to be independent. Smaller, independent brands like ourselves are the ones founded on the American dream - and we think it’s imperative to keep that spirit alive.
Meet Daniel, The KATO Wash Developer
Why is the wash process important and what does it do? The wash process is very important, because it gives the garments a very unique finish. Since kato’s garments are processed mostly by hand, every piece is unique... think of it like a piece of art where jeans are used as a canvas. What do you enjoy about working with KATOs products? I enjoy working with Kato because I like their products, that being said it just makes it fun because I get to work with what i like. What advice do you have for people washing denim at home? My advice for people washing their jeans at home... try not to wash them very often. Every whisker is like an untold story between you and your jeans.
A Brief History Of The Denim Jacket
From James Dean to Marilyn Monroe, denim jackets have been a hit for decades. Upon the creation of the denim jacket circa 1880 came an everyday easy to wear utility piece originally designed for cowboys and miners during the gold rush era. You might say that the denim jacket was the first ever work jacket designed with true laborers in mind. We took the traditional silhouette with horizontal pleats (for added maneuverability) for the base of our inspiration. Nick, our designer wanted to ensure we paid homage to the true denim blues but of course our added spin on comfort and durability. We added in pockets - and this denim jacket is made using the same denim fabric we use with our jeans (premium Japanese denim). It's 4-way stretch allows for the same flexibility our jeans offer while giving you the best possible fades. Check it out for yourself today.
A Sit Down With Nate (@cuffington)
Tell us a little bit about yourself: Where are you from? What's your current occupation? I grew up in Palo Alto, California but lived in Southern California for the last 9 years between San Diego and Los Angeles for school and work. I graduated from UC San Diego with a degree in Cognitive Science and ended up pursuing a career in digital marketing. Last year, I moved to New York to be the marketing director for Thursday Boots Company. I manage everything from content creation to digital marketing campaigns. - How did you get into photography and how did you develop your style? I had initially been interested in photography since high school. A few friends and I would play around with film cameras we would find at thrift stores. After high school, I kind of forgot about photography - it wasn't until when Instagram came around where I was drawn back into it. Like everybody else, I was taking photos with my iPhone and applying instagram filters before moving onto other photo filter apps like vsco and snapseed. That evolved into using an actual camera and regularly editing my photos through Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop. - Who are your favorite photographers? @whaleysworld - His account is one of the main reasons I started cuffington and the biggest influence on me. His photos and style are the perfect blend of rugged, moody, and adventurous. @moodsbymark - The master of still life - his photos are so crisp and clean. I love his utilization of lights, shadows, and colors. - How do you typically commute to work and how does your style transition from season to season? Now that I live in NY, I take the subway and walk to work. Since the seasons are definitely more extreme here on the east coast compared to the west, I have to dress accordingly or suffer the consequences. Lots of layers in the winter (which I love and was looking forward to, coming from California!) and a simple t-shirt or a short sleeve button-up for the summer. - How did you enter the world of fashion? Was it a goal you started out with or an avenue that opened up along the way? I have always been interested in fashion. When I was younger, I bounced around from style to style to find whatever it was that suited me most at that time. I wore baggy pants, really loud, baggy graphic tees, then to polos, flip flops, to my prized skate shoes paired with my nudies, APC, or naked & famous denim. It wasn’t until the end of college, which was when Instagram was on the rise, that I discovered the heritage style of denim and boots. Especially because it’s so timeless, it’s pretty much guided my style ever since. Professionally, I owe it all to Instagram for giving me the platform to showcase my style and opening all these doors for me in the fashion world. When I started my instagram, I didn't really have any specific intentions except to show off my outfits and denim fades. Social media has definitely revolutionized the fashion and marketing industry. - What's your favorite product by KATO + how does wearing KATO mix in with your everyday style? For colder weather, I am a huge fan of the Anvil Shirt Jacket. I love the modern curved hem and weight of the jacket. It’s heavy duty, keeps me warm while I shoot photos throughout New York. For warmer weather, the Wrench Short sleeve shirt is perfect. There are so many fun eye catching patterns released every season. For bottoms, obviously the 4-way Stretch Selvedge Denim. They are by far the most comfortable jeans I have ever worn. - How do you cuff your selvedge denim? I like to cuff my jeans in variety ways. 2 main ways are the raw hem with single cuff to expose the fray edges and the other one is a thin tight crisp cuff which involves only 2 tight rolls.
Interview with KATO designer Nick Takayuki
What inspires you when it comes to designing menswear? I’ve owned hundreds of vintage garments over the years and dozens of pairs of denim. The minimalist aesthetic and functionality of denim has always been very appealing to me. I wanted to look at apparel for their functions - every pocket and stitch should serve a purpose and not only that but should be made with quality and comfort. My goal is to create classic garments with a modern element that infuses comfort and vintage aesthetic with quality and durability. Where do you see the collection growing/evolving to? It’s important for me to put out a collection that is timeless. I want these pieces to be easy to wear, comfortable, look and feel sophisticated and to make the wearer feel great in them. Combining traditional garments with our innovative materials will always be how we move forward whether that is introducing a new fabric like our signature Denit or developing an entire new collection. Is it difficult to be innovative with fabrics? Traditionally the best fades in denim come from denim made with vintage shuttle looms but from dozens of tests and sampling, I found they didn’t meet the requirements for what we wanted to achieve on the comfort level. Over a two year period we developed an entire new fabric combining a stretch fabric with the selvedge denim in a unique process that would not alter the natural process of fade. From that, we’ve created a truly unique 4 way stretch denim material that behaves like traditional denim but holds the comfort demands for people today. Our Double Gauze material was equally difficult to develop as we wanted to create the softest shirt possible that also would last the wearer years. Softness and durability don’t traditionally sit next to each other but we didn’t want to compromise when it came to creating a comfortable shirt that you really could wear everyday. What items do you carry with you everyday? Some of my everyday carry includes: custom made notebook with a leather cover, Tom Ford glasses, Nike Daybreak sneakers, Redwing boots, Rolex Submariner, LA dodgers hat, a leather belt and pen & case.
Heritage in the Details: The Story of the Workwear Zipper
Details matter. On The Propeller and The Cruiser Jackets, even the zipper tells a story. We use a faithful reproduction of the hardware found on American workwear and military garments of the 1940s and ’50s—a time when durability wasn’t optional. The brass slider carries the original Universal engraving and is paired with the army green tape. Every element pulled straight from a vintage archive. This zipper traces its roots back to the Universal Button Fastening Company of Detroit, founded in the late 1800s. After WWII, they shifted into zippers and left their mark on American clothing before eventually becoming part of YKK, the leader in fastening hardware. Today, YKK’s Old American line revives those mid-century designs with the same authenticity, but built with modern precision. It’s a small detail, but one that makes a difference. The same way selvedge denim or copper rivets tell you something about how a garment was made, this zipper is a nod to the era when workwear was built to last—down to the last piece of hardware.
KATO X WHITE'S
KATO’s designer, Nick, shares his thoughts on the collaboration with White’s. Could you tell us about how this collaboration came to be? I’ve always loved boots — from sneakers to dress shoes to rugged work boots, I’ve collected more pairs than I can count. Back in the 1990s, when work boots started gaining popularity in Japan, I went through a phase of buying every pair I could find. That’s when I first discovered White’s Boots. They immediately stood out to me — Made in the USA, built entirely by hand, with a weight and authenticity that spoke to real craftsmanship. Despite their ruggedness, there was a refinement to their design, and the more I wore them, the more character they gained. When I started Hiroshi Kato, those memories — along with our shared philosophy of Made in the USA, made me feel a natural connection to White’s. Over time, the idea of collaborating took shape, and this partnership grew from that shared respect for craftsmanship. Was there anything particularly fun or inspiring during the planning and development process? As we planned the collaboration, we kept asking the same question: how do we make something that feels true to Kato while honoring what White’s does best? We landed on a simple idea — vintage meets comfort — and set out to build that with White’s handwork as the foundation, the heartbeat of the boot, the element that ties every detail together. The goal was a boot that carries the durability and purpose of classic workwear but also sits right in a modern wardrobe — equally at home on the job or worn for its style. What were you especially particular about when creating these special collaboration boots? For the last, we chose White’s Classic Semi Dress, which gives the design a refined silhouette that pairs just as well with wool trousers as it does with denim. To ensure lasting comfort, we opted for a Vibram Christy crepe sole for its superior cushioning. But instead of the usual white or cream tone that leans workwear, we went full triple black — upper, midsole, and sole — for a more versatile, modern look. The result is a boot that balances durability with understated sophistication. Using black teacore Horween Chromexcel leather, the surface gradually reveals warm brown tones as it ages, developing a patina unique to each wearer — much like a pair of well-worn jeans. Going forward, what kind of things would you like to do with KATO? This collaboration with White’s has deepened my desire to share the beauty of American craftsmanship with more people—to let them experience what Made in the USA truly means. To do that, we have to stay true to our uncompromising approach to making things the right way. I want us to continue evolving by collaborating with brands that share our values and philosophy—those who believe, as we do, that quality and integrity are worth every effort. Currently available for U.S. customers only.
Selvedge ID
The selvedge ID began as a purely functional detail—a technique of weaving the edge of a fabric into itself to prevent it from fraying. The word “selvedge” comes from “self-edge”. Over time, mills began color-coding these edges to identify the different fabrics for the brands they supplied. Hence the name “Selvedge ID”. The most iconic ID colors are the red on white and blue on white variations. What started as reinforcement became a signature; that narrow strip of color is now a symbol of authenticity and quality. Kato introduced our first selvedge denim in 2016: a 10.5oz 4-Way Stretch Selvedge with the classic red line. When we developed our heavier 14oz version, we gave it its own identity—an orange stripe paired with a fine navy line. Every denim fabric we craft has its own unique selvedge ID. We treat each selvedge ID like a signature—an intentional detail that distinguishes the fabric and reflects the same level of craftsmanship found in every stitch of our jeans. It’s more than just a line at the edge; it’s a quiet statement of who we are and the standard we refuse to compromise.
Vintage Details: The Rivet
Over a century ago, jeans were strictly workwear—built for labor, not leisure. To meet heavy work demands, rivets were introduced to reinforce stress points, especially along the pockets, where tearing was most common. Early jeans featured "punched" rivets—iron fasteners driven from the inside out, anchoring the pocket seams. These rivets were widely used until the 1960s, when modern jeans began to feature more polished versions. Kato remains committed to this workwear heritage. Inspired by rugged denim from the 1940s, we faithfully recreate “punched” rivets made from acid-treated copper that capture the look of natural aging. When punched through the jeans, the tack of the rivet pushes through a bit of denim fabric to the surface of the rivet—subtle, imperfect, and beautifully authentic. It’s a nod to history, preserved with precision.
Fit Comparison: The Hammer
The way jeans fit can vary significantly depending on your body type. What appears loose on one person may look snug on another. Factors such as height, build and proportion all play a role in how jeans fit and flatter your frame. To better understand these differences, let's dive into how the Hammer fit looks on two different models. About The Hammer Fit: Straight fit. This medium-rise cut has the lightest taper in our lineup, offering a comfortable yet clean profile for all body types. Both are wearing The Hammer - Julian size 32.
How 4-Way Stretch Selvedge Denim Is Made
In a world where stretch denim outsells rigid denim at a rate of four to one — at least, that’s according to a US cotton growers’ collective — it can be hard to grasp the fact that some stretch jeans are better than others. It’s not just the fact that there are several different ways that fabric specialists create the yarn that’s woven into denim. There are also different ways to weave the yarn once it’s created, and there are different degrees of stretch and directions of stretch that a denim can exhibit. To help explain these differences we invited Nick from Stridewise, an intrepid explorer of textiles and menswear across the globe, to our Los Angeles facility. Check out the internet’s best explainer of stretch vs non stretch denim. Here’s a quick summary: The Two Main Kinds of Stretch Denim Almost every brand on Earth employs one of two methods to make a stretchy yarn: core spun yarns or filament twisted yarns, which are also called covered yarns. In both cases, the cotton is blended with a synthetic fiber: typically elastane, spandex, lycra, and/or polyurethane. There are technical differences between these, but practically speaking they refer to the same petroleum byproduct. The most popular method is the filament twisted yarn, which twists the “poly” and the cotton together. It’s the cheaper method, but it exposes more of the synthetic fibers, so the final product is a fabric that’s a little shinier and won’t fade the way traditional denim will. At Kato we use core spun yarn: instead of twisting the two different yarns together, we wrap the cotton around the poly so that it’s completely encased. You might catch a glimpse of the poly when the fabric is stretched, but core spun yarn wears very differently. Because the exterior is all cotton, the dye will slowly chip away and expose the cotton beneath it exactly like rigid denim. Two-Way vs Four-Way Stretch Denim has threads that run in two directions: the warp goes vertically and the weft horizontally. Inexpensive stretch jeans just use stretchy yarns for the weft — after all, we’re more likely to stretch in that direction during our daily life than we are to stretch the jean vertically. But that doesn’t mean we never put any vertical tension on the fabric, and when both the warp and weft are made of core spun yarns, you get stretchy comfort in 360 degrees: any way you move, the jeans will move with you. Four-Way Stretch Selvedge Denim This brings us to Hiroshi Kato’s most unique achievement: we’re one of the only brands on Earth that produce four-way stretch denim on vintage shuttle looms. That’s what selvedge denim means: unlike the projectile looms that make almost all of the world’s denim, selvedge is made on shuttle looms. They make denim ten times more slowly and they’re much more expensive to use and maintain, but it makes denim that tends to be stronger and have more character. Above all, selvedge denim is a monument to our past: before fast fashion, people made things in a more thoughtful, slow, and skillful way. If you think of stretch denim as something cheap and simple, think again. There is a way to turn stretch jeans into an artform, and at Hiroshi Kato, we’ve perfected the process. Read more in our guide to 4-way stretch selvedge denim.
All About The Hardware
Buttons are a detail that is often taken for granted, but they strongly affect the quality, look, and feel of a pair of jeans. Here is a bite-sized deep dive into Kato Brand’s buttons. Double-Circle Tack Button The classic double-circle button has been a staple of denim history since the 1890s when jeans first emerged. The history of vintage denim is inseparable from the story of this button. Hiroshi Kato’s signature button faithfully reproduces this historic vintage button style. The very first pair of Kato Brand jeans featured faded silver double-circle buttons. Today, we use an assortment of white, copper, polished silver, and black, depending on the type of Selvedge denim fabric. Two-Prong Donut Button During the Great War from 1940 to 1950, resources were heavily allocated to wartime efforts, leaving little for everyday goods. Jeans were no exception, as the government prohibited brands from using their signature buttons, forcing them to rely on the inexpensive and widely available donut buttons. Hiroshi Kato has revived the iconic donut button that symbolizes this era, using it exclusively on our 100% cotton selvedge denim. These Kato Brand engraved buttons are featured as top buttons and throughout the button fly. A brief yet significant detail in the rich history of jeans, the donut-shaped button has become a hallmark of vintage denim design.
Fit Comparison: The Scissors Fit
The way jeans fit can vary significantly depending on your body type. What appears loose on one person may look snug on another. Factors such as height, build and proportion all play a role in how jeans fit and flatter your frame. To better understand these differences, let's dive into how the Scissors fit looks on two different models. About The Scissors Fit: Slim tapered fit. Sits lower on the hip with a slight drop-crotch, ideal for average to athletic builds seeking a fitted, sharp taper.
A Loop Through Time: The Evolution of Belt Loops on Jeans
Belt loops weren’t always a standard feature on jeans. Before 1922, workers relied on suspenders or wore their jeans high on the waist to keep them in place. When belt loops were finally introduced, the transition wasn’t immediate—old habits die hard. For 15 years, from 1922 to 1937, both belt loops and suspender buttons coexisted, allowing wearers to choose their preferred method of support. As denim production ramped up, so did the need for more efficient sewing techniques. From the 1940s to 1953, the back center belt loop was sewn directly over the center seam, reinforcing the design. But by 1954, a practical shift took place—the center loop was moved slightly off-center to avoid the thick, overlapping seam, making mass production easier and more consistent. Even as technology improved, skilled workers still had their own techniques, leading to variations in vintage jeans, where some offset loops appeared unintentionally. By 1966, advancements in sewing machinery brought the center belt loop back to its original placement, standardizing the look we recognize today. But those small variations in vintage denim—intentional or accidental—remain a favorite among collectors, proving that even the smallest details in denim have a rich history worth preserving.
Fit Comparison: The Pen Fit
The way jeans fit can vary significantly depending on your body type. What appears loose on one person may look snug on another. Factors such as height, build and proportion all play a role in how jeans fit and flatter your frame. To better understand these differences, let's dive into how the Scissors fit looks on two different models. Both are wearing The Pen - Keith size 32. About The Pen Slim fit: This medium-rise cut is ideal for average body types, providing a tailored yet comfortable look.
Denim Details: The Vintage Bartack
The bartack is a key detail in vintage denim, rooted in the rivets of the early 1900s. Originally used to reinforce pockets, rivets became an issue—cowboys found them scratching their saddles, and people complained about them damaging furniture. To solve this, hidden bartacks were introduced, securing the pockets while preventing unwanted wear on surroundings. Early on, denim was folded over the rivets and stitched down to conceal them, but over time, the rivets would poke through as the fabric wore down. As sewing technology advanced, bartacks gradually replaced hidden rivets as a more convenient and durable solution. By 1965, as denim evolved from workwear to fashion, hidden rivets disappeared, leaving the bartack as a lasting symbol of function and craftsmanship. Kato Jeans honors this legacy, preserving the bartack construction as a tribute to denim’s evolution.
The Seafaring Icon: The Mallet Peacoat
The enduring appeal of the peacoat lies in its versatility, durability, and timeless style, making it a treasured piece passed down through generations. It transcended its naval origins when it was adopted by 50s and 60s counterculture and became a symbol of cool. In the 1970s, the peacoat left an indelible mark on pop culture, thanks in part to notable appearances on screen, such as Robert Redford's portrayal in "Three Days of the Condor." Featuring distinctive fastening with eight or ten large buttons, the peacoat boasts a design that excels in cold and wet conditions. This ingenious layout serves to shield the wearer's chest and neck from the unforgiving elements, including biting winds, rain, and sea spray. Adding to its practicality, vertical side pockets provide seafarers with a convenient way to warm their hands. The coat's upper section fits snugly, offering superior protection against the elements, while its flared skirt, a departure from its predecessor, the long coats worn by Naval officers, allows for enhanced freedom of movement during the rigors of sea life. A recurring emblem on the peacoat is the imprint of a rope-entwined anchor. This design pays homage to Charles Howard, 1st Earl of Nottingham, whose seal as Lord High Admiral during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I in the 1500s continues to inspire this enduring symbol of maritime heritage and timeless fashion. “The Mallet” Peacoat After thoughtful consideration of how to pay homage to the original while modernizing this iconic jacket, we are thrilled to introduce "The Mallet" Peacoat to the Kato lineup. Distinguished by its double-breasted silhouette and two rows of bold admiral-style anchor buttons, "The Mallet" Peacoat commands attention as it faces the elements head-on. Our unwavering passion and deep respect for vintage clothing is embedded in the very fabric of the entire Kato line. We scour the globe for great vintage pieces and study them with meticulous attention to every detail. In our view, it is within these subtleties that the authentic excellence of vintage clothing resides. With "The Mallet" Peacoat, we've channeled our wealth of expertise in vintage detailing, while also making subtle functional enhancements to honor the legacy of these exceptional pieces. For its enduring durability and resistance to the weather, we've chosen a robust yet soft 21oz Melton wool infused with 10% Nylon. To add a touch of refinement, we've opted for an eight-button front. Additionally, we've lowered the hand warmer pockets for ease of use and a more natural stance. The collar and cuffs feature adjuster straps, designed to ward off wind and rain in challenging conditions. The tailored cut of our "The Mallet" Peacoat offers a slightly slimmer silhouette, injecting a dash of elegance to this handsome coat. This is a timeless piece that will last for decades and is made to be passed down through generations. “The Mallet” Peacoat is available in Navy and Military Green.
Old Blue Raw Denim: The American Classic
Kato’s respect for denim reaches back decades. Our years of experience and research is how we can create a timeless pair of jeans. This season we use our breakthrough 4 Way Stretch Selvedge as the base for several new fabrics that give a nod to the freewheeling vibe of the 70’s. Although This denim has never been washed, it is sanforized, a process that takes out almost all the shrinkage. Greencast 10.5oz & 14oz 4 way Stretch Selvedge This denim is Indigo dyed to a light and vibrant blue. This color combined with the lightweight makes for the ideal summer selvedge. The denim features a faded red selvedge ID.
A Closer Look: The Screw Blazer
Dressed up and ready to work. The Screw Blazer is a more refined approach to our vintage military inspired clothing. We made this 3 button soft shoulder blazer to be sharp looking and hard wearing. Military and hunting jacket details influenced some of the key features of this rugged blazer. Double chainstitch construction gives this jacket the same durability as your favorite pair of jeans. We lined the shoulder and upper back for a more comfortable feel. Finished with vintage style Cats Eye buttons. This jacket features a removable military style 4th button which you can use to button your jacket lapel up all the way and create a wind blocking collar, perfect for heading out of the office on a motorcycle for a night on the town.
The Nail Stretch Oxford
We based our military cargo pants on the original M-47 fatigues. These 6-pocket pants were worn during the 50s by the French army. We updated the classic full cut trousers with the modern slim straight cut found on our popular Axe Chinos. Traditionally, these pants were made from heavy twill fabrics, but we wanted something more versatile, so we constructed our fatigues with a 5% stretch oxford cloth, for more comfort and mobility. These fatigues have been garment dyed for a vintage look and feel. The authentic flap pockets are fitted with snap buttons for easy access. Available in beige, military green and charcoal.
The Anvil Jacket (A History Of The CPO Jacket)
Behind this 1930 utilitarian classic, it was designed from thick wool to provide warmth for U.S Navy Chief Petty Officers during their cold-weather work duties. The CPO shirt has become a contemporary timeless piece into our modern wardrobe that transcended from its military roots. The CPO shirt is a heavyweight wool overshirt with keynotes of navy colors and has one or two flap-closure patch chest pockets. The shirt was worn by naval officers and favored for its cozy and hard-wearing materials such as: Robust, tonal buttons run down the main placket, cuffs, and pockets, and these buttons often feature an embossed anchor representing the shirt’s nautical heritage. KATO’s Designer Innovates modern fit on vintage garment There’s something about a shirt jacket that just speaks sophistication in menswear. For our “Anvil” Shirt Jacket, we took your traditional double panel shirt jacket and turned it into 3 to create a three-dimensional look. “The Anvil” Shirt Jacket, is meticulously crafted using a 3D pattern. Most tops are cut from two-dimensional patterns. With these 2D patterns, the front is sewn directly to the back. “The Anvil” Shirt Jacket introduces side panels as the third dimension, allowing more control over the shape of the garment. This result is a garment with an impeccable fit. As always, “The Anvil” Shirt Jacket features vintage-style rounded chest and hand pockets, military-style cat-eye buttons, and lined cuffs.”
The Making Of The File Jacket
Based on the original M-65 field jacket that was widely used by United States forces during the Vietnam War. The M-65 kept the soldiers warm in the cool weather that came after monsoonal rains.“The File” is engineered to the durable specifications of a military fatigue jacket, with an improved fit and fabric. For the launch of our new military jacket, we sourced a beautiful Japanese reverse slub satin fabric. By flipping the surface of fabric, we reveal the subtly textured qualities that make it so sought after by connoisseurs. We made the details our own by introducing angled pockets for ease of use and our signature KATO orange stitching to secure the mil-spec matte buttons.“The File” jacket is now available in Military Green and Khaki. There are two classic war era jackets that inspired the File Jacket and how it functions. The OG-107 was manufactured in its first iteration from 1952 until 1963. Despite this, the earliest version of the uniform would be the one most often seen in pictures of American troops in Vietnam. The OG-107 is perhaps most closely associated with the Vietnam war but was considered the standard Army uniform for most soldiers at home and abroad. The M-65 field jacket earned its stripes during the Vietnam War where it was widely used by U.S. Forces. The field jacket was created specifically for military practicality and cold weather conditions. Given its deep history and the context of its application, it should come as no surprise that theM-65 is built to last. One of theM-65‘s biggest strengths are the balance it strikes between function and form. It certainly has all the construction qualities to protect one from the elements, but it also possesses a clean, timeless piece that is not always easy to obtain.
Why We Love Heavy Weight Denim
This week we sat down with our best denim friends and asked them the question. Why do you love heavy weight denim? Nick Noguchi – Designer and Brand Director of HIROSHI KATO:People who like denim, especially vintage denim, including myself, like heavy denim because we basically think that 100% cotton 13oz selvedge jeans are the real deal. That's because most vintage jeans from the 1900s are 100% cotton and 12-13oz. However, as Hiroshi Kato's jeans are, jeans have evolved and stretch jeans that look like real vintage jeans appeared in the 2000s. Jeans lovers seek out jeans made of more real selvedge denim, and they enjoy showing off how similar the fade of their jeans is to that of 1900s vintage jeans after wearing them in raw denim. Selvedge denim woven on old looms can reproduce that vintage-like fade, and jeans of about 13oz are the best. I also know that the fade of my worn jeans is customized, and it becomes more authentic by wearing them for a year, two years, or three years. For that, it is necessary to have a more complete fade while handling it roughly for a long time. Heavier jeans are suitable because they are strong enough to withstand that for a long time. By becoming heavier than 14oz, 17oz, or even 20oz, the strength increases and the fade design that took a long time to complete is completed. Also, heavier denim is more likely to show natural wrinkles from wearing, such as Whisker and Honeycomb. Also, jeans were originally work clothes in the early 1900s, and originally emphasized durability and functionality rather than fashion, but they have a rare history of being adopted as fashion since the 1970s. I don't think there is any other clothing other than jeans that can be recognized as fashion even if it is actually torn. It is only jeans that attract people as fashion when worn out. So denim guy seeks heavier denim in search of durability and ideal fade. Bryan Szabo - Editor and Writer of Denimhunters There’s really nothing like it. While selvedge enthusiasts often refer to themselves with terms like “heritage” and “vintage style”, heavyweight selvedge is more a product of this century than any other. Around the turn of the twenty-first century, brands began pushing the limits of what was possible, and those who wore the heavy pairs found that they faded in ways that couldn’t be matched with lightweight denim. Rather than creasing sharply, they roll into thick folds, and the added weight places greater strain on these creases. The result is eye-popping contrast fades across the lap, behind the knees, and above the cuffs. Once you’ve produced fades like this on a pair, you’ll be entirely hooked. You’ll wonder how you ever wore anything else. Deyvis Aucca – Marketing Manager, Blogger and Vintage Collector Instargam@deyvisvintagestyle I love heavyweight denim because it offers an unmatched feeling of quality and durability. The weight and texture bring a sense of authenticity that you just don’t get with lighter fabrics. Plus, the transformation process is truly special, watching heavyweight raw selvedge denim evolve into beautifully faded denim over time adds a personal touch that makes it unique. The deep, classic fades tell a story of wear and character, making them more than just jeans. In my experience, heavyweight denim isn’t just tougher, it’s surprisingly versatile and becomes even more comfortable the more it’s worn. It’s all about the journey, and heavyweight denim delivers every step of the way. Ross Takev – Good friend of KATOInstagram @ross.takev I admire heavyweight denim for its undisputable functional qualities, like robustness and wear resistance. Of course, there's also the aesthetic joy of experiencing the fabric in its visual appearance, and there's something even more in it. That is the thrill of the tactile experience of the cloth in every nuance. The touch, how it feels next to the skin when it moves around the body, and not the least – the draping manner because of the higher gravitational force. And then, if it is raw, the character will be more pronounced. That is the cherry on the pie, and I am charmed. Greg Tamura – Denim HoundInstagram @denimhound I initially became obsessed with denim not as a textile, but as a realization. The feeling that my life and our culture at the time lacked substance, quality, and roots. Denim is a philosophy that strives to do more with less and to appreciate the passage of time and the aging of all things. It is an emblem that symbolizes my values. It fades into a tapestry and, like art, it is a visual result of my life experiences. Denim represents my heritage, the roots of my story peaking up just above the surface. Denim is strength and grace. At some point, anyone who dives into the world of denim wrestles with the prospect of heavyweight denim. The idea of it is intriguing. I liked the idea of stronger, longer-lasting denim. I read it fades “Better.” I saw pictures online of faded heavyweight denim in all of its glory. I wanted in. My first pair of raw heavyweight denim was a 20oz Japanese selvedge. It was a novelty I had never seen before in any mall, in any fancy designer store on the bougie side of town, or any overtly chill boutique vintage shop on the cool side of town. Sooo heavy and textured. So coarse. So…uncomfortable! In a good way. Is that weird? Am I a weirdo? I hop on social media and it turns out, there are a bunch of us weirdos. There were many reasons people got into heavyweight but for me, it felt like it was taking this symbol of my philosophies to its natural pinnacle. It’s the most substantial expression of my connection to my cultural heritage. It felt like an investment that would pay off longer than any other pair of jeans. An American rite of passage like breaking in your first baseball glove or learning how to tune up your own car. The first couple of weeks I felt crazy, walking around in what I could only describe as sailboat sails or some kind of welder’s protective armor. Some people noticed and said something like, “Woah, those are some serious jeans!” Half compliment, half circus marvel. Most people didn't notice, which made me feel better about the whole thing. By the time they started to break in, I was hooked. They were strong and soft like some rugged blanket. The first few years I even wore them in the summer. Every step I was walking the glorious path to grail fades, on hikes, at the beach, in the ocean, camping, bike riding, at work, at home, all day, every day. Nowadays I have leveled out and reserve the heavy weights for when the weather drops below 70º. But every fall, I am reunited with my old friends, like some motley crew of monsters living in my closet. Here are some facts, and opinions I have gathered from my decade in raw heavyweight selvedge denim. First, some facts. It is not indestructible. Yes, heavyweight denim can be more durable than average denim, but only if you properly care for it. Because of the thickness of the denim, its creases when still raw and unwashed are more rigid and more pronounced. This can lead to holes much faster than a more malleable denim of average weight. Doing a soak of your raw heavyweight denim to wash out the starches before wearing and hand washing at least every 30 wears will dramatically prolong the life of heavyweight denim. Also, make sure you clean the dirt and pebbles out of your cuffs every couple of days or you will eventually get holes in your cuffs. The next thing I feel needs clearing up is the idea that heavyweight denim fades “better” than regular denim. The fading potential of all rope-dyed denim no matter the weight depends on how light the core of the rope-dyed yarn is and how thick and stubborn the indigo dye on the outside of the yarn is. This determines how fast the denim fades and to what level of contrast. The weight of the denim has no bearing on this. It does however crease differently so the patterns it creates are different and the difference in contrast between the creases and the faded flat surfaces can be stronger. The creases are farther apart from each other and have a bolder line on areas like the honeycombs, stacks, and whisker areas. For me, I think between 18oz and 22oz is the sweet spot for heavyweight denim. I feel ridiculous wearing 25oz+ denim in the city. If I worked construction or something and it had a utility, then I’d be into it. I’d probably also wear it after work. As I am writing this, I am breaking in a new pair of 21.5oz denim.
Meet Ross Takev
Tell us little bit about yourself. I am a curious person who loves the world in its wholeness. We are gifted with being alive, and every day is a bliss. I strive to make the best of it. In my experience, the true way to this is always related to the soul of the individual, and the paths are countless. I think a good pair of denim can help one reflect on that – both functionally and aesthetically pleasing. From barista to lifeguard to fintech professional, what’s been the biggest lesson you’ve taken from each of these unique roles? I studied Fine Arts in high school and Engineering Design at the university, which, looking back at it, emphasizes being creative at my core. I’m applying this principle in its most fundamental form. This is to be in every moment just as it is, wholeheartedly. At the center of every situation is always the same thing – to give yourself to it. It doesn’t matter if this means observing attentively at 104°F for eight hours straight, creating an object out of nothing, preparing an intricate drink and having a quick chat with a customer, or analyzing a complex information block. So, shortly speaking the biggest lesson is this: stay open, fall in love.What’s one habit or practice that keeps you grounded despite the corporate demands of fintech? I do rely on some simple rituals that give me reference for inner work and that are pointing to an appropriate state of mind. Of course I benefit from regular meditation practice. There are also these simple daily things like counting on my uniform without too much contemplation, sipping a bold coffee, and listening to good music. One can predict too little, and that’s actually beautiful. At the same time, one can look good, feel good… referencing James Brown here, for those who know – and be prepared for the moment, generally speaking. As someone who loves exploring the world, what cultural influences have impacted your taste in denim or lifestyle choices? More or less, unconsciously I’ve been influenced by appreciating the style of my parents, who are from the original hippie generation. So I guess this implies heavily bleached and worn-out classic USA denim. This has been transformed into the generation I am from, soaked in rave, skate, hip-hop & punk vibes. More recently, I experienced more personal insight through the Japanese impact on denim. Realizing the high quality of attention that is given to tradition and creating something contemporary at the same time resonated deep inside me. Wearing it raw adds up to this. One can say that the presence of this invisible “golden thread” – connecting the present with the past and future, gives this richer meaning. What sparked your love for selvedge denim, and how has your approach to denim evolved since that first pair? The attention to detail sparked something special for me. Specifically speaking, just these small red and white stripes made all the difference at the beginning. Learning about history, technique, and culture expanded my horizons. I also dipped my toes in Italian denim, so to speak, and I am interested in experimenting with other origins as well. Step by step, it is visible how by something “trivial” at first glance, a much broader point of view is possible. And this gives even a spiritual value to it. I spent some time ruminating on why details are so worthwhile on a product of creation, besides their functional and/or aesthetic aspects. I always bring to the point that, on some level, this is a sign of attentiveness—a presence of consciousness. And this is the consciousness of the designer, of the producer, of everyone down the chain to the one wearing the denim in our context. This is how we get connected to one, by being actually one. How has your experience with the Indigo Invitational changed the way you view and wear denim? As someone who loves variety, I admit I pushed my boundaries. At the same time, I affirmed my opinion that one can do with fewer and better products from the wardrobe. Yes, well-designed and produced clothes make a big difference. Strictly denim-wise, I am in even more abundant love with it. No effort. It just excels, day after day. If you could create your ideal pair of KATO jeans, what details or features would you include to make them uniquely yours? I would take a proven fit and would touch it just a little – like choosing a color combination for the selvedge ID and creating an image for the leather patch. If the specifications allow it, I would depict a button maybe with a catchword on it, and design the arcuates on the back pockets. And if we get hardcore, I’ll enjoy being part of the process of creating the denim fabric structure. But then we’re almost talking about making a new model, aren’t we? Pardon me, this is imagination speaking.What were your thoughts before trying KATO, and how has your experience changed since you started wearing our jeans? I reached the conclusion about KATO before wearing KATO, and the expectations were high. I expected nothing less from the pair, having in mind the mouth-watering photos and specifics visible on the internet. I had no one around me wearing a KATO, so it was all a pure first experience. One year after heavily wearing the pair, I can say that the expectations were exceeded many times over. Comfort is unmatched, thanks to the slight elasticity, and most importantly – the painstaking engineering. Details are mind-blowing – we’re talking even about embroidered care labels here, and as mentioned above, this is satisfactory on every level. The style is superb – it has this universal quality to it, and at the same time, brings character. It is part of me now, and I am part of it. But words are not far enough. You can’t describe KATO. You have to wear it.
Fade Contest Winner: Kunal Rana
Tell us about your jeans. This is my go-to pair of denim for nearly any casual occasion. I've worn them while hiking, dinner dates, to just bumming at home on weekends. This is hands down my most comfortable pair of raw denim due to the 4 way stretch. Over time, the pocket bags on both sides began to tear from the pocket hem so I've decided to sashiko stitch to keep it all together. I love the unique look it created together with the fades. The back belt loop is starting to bust but still holding up for now. On my back pocket right side, you can see a bit of a subtle wallet fade. I'm not a fan of wallet fades, so I decided to stop putting my wallet in there. I also love the combs that formed behind my knees. I've always thought that stretch denim could not develop well defined combs but I was wrong. I plan to keep wearing these jeans and continue to make them into my own personality. Tell us more about Sashiko stitch you did on your pockets. How did you get that idea? When my pocket bags tore, I realized I needed functionality of my pockets to hold my house keys, pens, and other daily items. It’s amazing how much I missed my pockets after I lost them! So I did some browsing over the internet on how to repair denim and came across Sashiko stitching. It seemed simple to do and inexpensive so I gave it a try. I found some tutorial videos on YouTube that walked me through the process. The results turned out better than I thought and the stitching pattern gave the denim a unique look. Tell us a little about yourself. (If you are a denim/fashion lover, can you tell us that side of you as well?) I was born and raised in New Jersey and I make a living as an engineer. During my free time, I enjoy martial arts, appreciate craft beers, explore the outdoors, and wear my raw denim. Kato’s raw denim was my very first entrance into the raw denim world and it’s what got me into the fading craze. I enjoy fading my jeans because they look even better with time and wear, which really can’t be said about most other types of fabrics. It’s a hobby that I grew to appreciate. You mentioned that you were wearing our jeans when you went to hiking. Can you tell us more about that? (do you like to wear jeans when you go hiking?) Hiking is one of my favorite hobbies as I truly enjoy the experience to be with nature, escape from the busy world, and get a good workout in. Depending on the time of the year, I usually rotate between my hiking pants and my Kato jeans. During cooler months, I prefer wearing Kato’s 14 oz jeans as they are a little warmer than my hiking pants and the 4-way stretch makes for a comfortable hike. Sometimes I go hiking with friends and occasionally we go out for a few craft beers afterwards. Another benefit to hiking with jeans is that afterwards, I’m already dressed for the occasion. My Kato jeans are truly the most versatile pants I own. Do you remember how you found KATO? (What lead you try our jeans first time? What was the first impression of 4-way stretch selvedge jeans?) I first found Kato at a local men’s store called City Workshop Men’s Supply in Maplewood, New Jersey. Highly recommend visiting if you have not. My wife and I were walking down the street browsing various shops along the way. We walked into the men’s store and was pleasantly encouraged to try on a few jeans. Of the various brands I tried, I found Kato to be the most comfortable due to the 4-way stretch and the fabric itself wasn’t too rigid. My wife also liked the way the Kato jeans fit on my slim build. The Pen fit together with the 4-way stretch allowed for a snug and flattering look while still being comfortable.
Fade Contest Winner: Jordan Johnson
About your denim Fit: Pen Slim 14oz Color: Indigo Raw I have owned the denim a couple of years now, but I try to put tallies in for the number of wears. I am at roughly 175 wears in this specific pair of denim. I wear them for everything: casually around the house, dates, hikes, playing with the kids, work, etc. Since I got into denim, I typically strive for those big contrasting fades. I think with this specific pair, they have about 4-5 washes and a couple soaks. Tell us about yourself. I am a husband and father above everything else in life. My family is my WHY and I am who I am today. My wife and I have been married 10 years and have been together since high school. We have two children, a boy and a girl, and a baby coming in August. Once you have kids, life begins to revolve a bit around their interests and experiences we can introduce to them, so that has been a very satisfying part of this chapter of life. Professionally, I have worked in education for almost a decade. I taught elementary school for 8 years, but have since moved into administration, currently serving as an assistant principal. Right now, it is a difficult job with some very hard days, but always so rewarding to work with kids and help guide them into the awesome individuals they will become. I have been on instagram for 3-4 years now. It all began as a hobby once I acquired my first pair of redwing boots, and slowly overtime, I added more and more heritage pieces to my collection. With the growing wardrobe, a small following came as well, and I am so grateful to all that choose to follow along. What are the most fulfilling and challenging aspects in your work? I went into education because I loved working with kids. Honestly, for me, it has nothing to do with the content being taught- The kids and their lives are the content. Having the ability to help young people learn through difficult situations in life and having the opportunity to speak life into how to best navigate those situations is easily the most rewarding part of the job. But there is also nothing like seeing those lightbulbs go off when they finally grasp that difficult concept that you have been working on. The job will always have challenges, much like any profession. I’d say the most difficult part of the profession is the outside negativity that is constantly being thrown on education. Whether a principal, teacher, Instructional assistant, cafeteria worker, etc., these people are dedicating their lives to the future generations. They deserve the highest respect. And also a liveable wage would be nice. As an educator, do you incorporate your educational experience with your own children? As a teacher, principal, and father, I always have found that building relationships is the number one objective. You will never connect with any individual or be able to teach them anything if there is not a strong relationship established. If you think back to your favorite teachers in life, odds are they gave time in class to just share conversations, talk about life, have fun, etc. There is a reason you remember those specific individuals. They made an impact. Not because they simply taught you some dates in history, but because they were simply in your corner. As an educator and father, I have found that sharing my past experiences in life, good and bad, is desired by these children. They want to know who you are outside of the four walls and about your life. Let them learn from your failures and borrow ideas from your successes. What is your purchasing style? and how do you coordinate your outfits on social media? Over the past couple years, my purchasing style has been to buy quality pieces that can pair with multiple things in my wardrobe. But I also am attempting to stay minimal, so when purchasing these new quality pieces, I attempt to replace a few fast fashion pieces for that one new item, whether selling or donating the old. The goal is to buy quality pieces that will last forever. How long have you known KATO & what do you like about us? I won a contest a few years back where I won my first pair of Kato denim. Since then, Kato has become one of my favorite brands to snag awesome gear from. Personally, they have the best fitting bottoms, both denim and chinos, for my figure. I have both the Pen and Axe fits in my wardrobe and both are great! There are a lot of great heritage brands out there, but I always include Kato in my recommendations. What is it about selvedge denim that makes it stand out compared to other denim? I think people that are drawn to selvedge and raw denim are people that strive for quality. People that are observant often make comments that I always cuff my jeans or point out the super clean seam on the cuff. Selvedge pops out and looks awesome, but it also pays tribute to the old school practices of making denim in the past. Additionally, when you begin to enter that world, you become passionate about avoiding fast fashion and buying from smaller brands that focus on quality.
Meet The Fade Contest Winner
Tell us a little about yourself. CB: I split my time between Washington DC and the beautiful Blue Ridge mountains in Virginia. I am soon to be married to my lovely fiancée Leah, who thankfully still wants to get married despite my having washed my KATO jeans maybe onetime. Outside the city we spend time hiking and exploring nature with our bernedoodle. Can you tell us more the story behind your fade? CB: My KATO jeans have been with me through many significant life events over the past two years. They have been my trusty companion as I started a new job and got engaged to the love of my life. Through all of these experiences, my jeans have grown with me, and the unique fades they have developed serve as a reminder of these cherished moments. Leah and I had our second date walking in Rock Creek Park in DC. Earlier last year ... we went back on the same walk but this time I had some hardware and proposed along the same trail as our second date. We’ve lived in DC together, and for a variety of reasons have had to move twice in the last two years. KATO has been there on moving day and anniversary dinner. We are glad to hear our customers are wearing KATO’s jeans longtime. What made you purchase KATO and could you give us your personal feedback? CB: I love Japan, I love the United States, and I want to buy jeans that will look great at dinner or in afield and last for a long, longtime. KATO was a no brainer once I discovered the brand. I was just hoping they’d fit after ordering my first pair online. I have three pairs now, and although there’s been some fiddling with sizes and pen slim/regular, I haven’t looked back. I hope to buy KATO forever and expand into the new shirts and the jean jacket.
Fade Contest Winner: Jordan Roy
We sat down with our Fade Contest winner Jordan Roy for a quick Q&A. KATO Selvedge: The Needle-Indigo Raw 10.5 oz Worn: for 1 year 10 months My wife and I along with our couple of pets live in Indianapolis. Currently, I’m working my way through flight school. The fade comes from extensive use! I wear them nearly every day to work, out to dinner, lounging around the house, and longboarding. I wash my denim minimally, hang to dry, and spot clean as needed. What was your first raw denim? The Needle from Kato was actually my first step into the raw denim world!I remember one morning walking outside to wipe the snow off of my car and I slipped on a sheet of ice. Ripped a huge hole down the knee. I was so devastated when it first happened but, I was able to find some cool red floral fabrics to patch them with. How many raw jeans do you have?I believe I am at around 6 pairs of raw jeans now. The pair I submitted for the fade contest are by far my favorite fade. They have been put through a lot of use over the past couple years. I was able to track down some cool red floral fabrics to use as a patch for the tear in the knee. What are you enjoying wearing raw denim?I recently started wearing the 14oz denim in the Needle fit. I love breaking in a new pair and giving them their own unique personality. Do you want to keep wearing them to fade more or move to new one? I will definitely continue wearing the faded pair! Despite the rips and tears they continue to fit even better over time. Also I think it's important to have a fresh pair of denim in the closet. Breaking in each pair is a fun little project! What do you like about KATO’s Jeans comparing with other denim brands?I have tried on other denim, but can never pull the trigger on purchasing something different. Kato just fits me perfectly. I get the texture and feel of raw denim, while also having stretch and comfort. I don't see myself moving on to something else anytime soon. Do you have any other KATO’s item? What would be your next piece?Currently, I have the 14oz and 10oz in the raw Needle fit, a blue flannel, short sleeve button up, and a spring weight chore coat. The next piece I put in my closet would probably be one of the fall/winter corduroy jackets. That's definitely something I'm missing and would love to have!
One Year Later: The Fade
The fade of denim is a truly unique and personal experience. How often you wear it, what you carry in your pockets, how you wash it (see our wash video here) all add up to the creation of fades. The best fades come from raw denim over a period of time as the denim is worn. The characteristics of the denim fabric allow for it to age like a real pair of vintage jeans, only achieved after months of testing and developing our selvedge denim. After one year of wear almost everyday here is an example of the fade created. This wearer always carries a phone - note the impressions made over time. Our white leather patch (left) and signature orange stitching (right) after one year of consistent wear with moderate washing.