I bought the newly release Pen Slim 10.5oz Copper Raw and Dark Green Raw last week, the items arrived this past weekend. This is the 4th and 5th pairs of Kato I own. Back in 2021 and 2022, I purchased two pairs of Pen Slim 10.5oz Indigo Raw, and then another pair of Axe Denit Charcoal Grey. Side note - there was no in-house hemming service by Kato at the time, so it's all full length.
The first Pen Slim I bought was Size 30, I picked it up at a local menswear retail store. I have a Size 30 waist but the crotch was too tight for me (not to brag, but I work out 6 days a week, never skip leg day). I then went back to pick up a pair of Size 31 Pen Slim, it was way more comfortable and fit my thigh much better. Because I bought them at the local retail store, I ended up just keeping the Size 30 one and it's been hanging in my closet every since.
It's also noteworthy that I only wear the Jeans in casual hang out occasions very carefully, and have never washed any of the Pen Slim Jeans. Therefore no shrinkage need to be assumed.
Now, back to the new Copper Raw and Dark Green Raw I purchased last week. I purchased the Size 31 for both pairs expecting they will have the same tailoring as the ones I bought two three years ago.
THEY DO NOT.
I didn't a test fit last night and, surprisingly, found out that the waist size was smaller than the previous Size 31 I purchased. The crotch was tighter to a point that it's uncomfortable. I was really confused for a while - I have been 174 +/- 1.5lbs for years and I just wore the old Size 31 jeans 5 days ago.
So I pulled the old Size 31 and compared the new Size 31 with the old Size 31, sure enough, the new Size 31 was 1.75inch shorter than the old Size 31. That's precisely the width of the waistband.
Then I remember, "I have an old Size 30 hanging in the closet". Pulling it out quickly and comparing it, and this happened:
THE NEW SIZE 31 IS EXACTLY THE SAME SIZE AND THE OLD SIZE 30!
Therefore, if a person used to wear Size 30 just fine, he will need a Size 31 now. Hence, "Size 31 is the new Size 30". I find it hard to comprehend, why does a company that "proudly make the best quality Jean in the U.S.A" will silently change the sizing? Especially when there is zero price difference between sizes? I can't even explain it with capitalism because it doesn't change the profit, at least on the surface. It merely produce inconvenience. This is truly head scratching. Hence the 3 star review.
Ending on the positive - the fabric quality is still old Kato. I have requested a exchange one size up to Size 32. I would suggest folks who consider purchasing this jeans to do the same (i.e. buy one size larger than you typically do)
